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owners are helpful, offer tasty meals and can
organise bikes (Rs 350 per day), scooters (Rs
1500) or a car and driver (from Rs 5000).Pillaiyar Inn HoTel $$
(%222 2829; http://www.pillaiyarinn.com; 31 Manipay rd;
s/d/tr from rs 2200/2700/3500, with air-con rs
3000/4000/5000; ai) Close to the centre,
this Jaffna institution is set back from the road
in a pretty garden. Friendly, old-fashioned and
professionally run, it has a run-down old wing
(avoid) and a good, if slightly bland, new wing
(book). The food is excellent.Sarras Guest House guesTHouse $
(%222 3627, 567 4040; [email protected];
20 somasutharam rd; r with/without air-con from
r s 2500/2000; aW) Ageing colonial man-
sion with some (faded) character, includ-
ing polished old floorboards and red-oxide
flooring, though maintenance could be a lit-
tle better. The very spacious top-floor rooms
are best; avoid the last-resort annex. The
family running the place can prepare meals
and advise on transport options.Green Grass HoTel $
(%222 4385; http://www.jaffnagreengrass.com; 33
Aseervatham ln, Hospital rd; s/d/tr with air-con rs
3000/3300/3850; aWs) Architecturally it’s a
mess, but thanks to its attractive gardens and
pool this place has some charm. The cheap
rooms are worn and have thin foam mattress-
es; the more expensive options are comforta-
ble. There’s a rather gloomy restaurant.oJaffna Heritage Hotel B ouTIQue HoTel $$
(%222 2424; http://www.jaffnaheritage.com; Temple rd;
s/d/tr rs 9000/11,000/13,000; aWs) A superb
new modern hotel where the ten rooms tick
all the contemporary design boxes, with clean
lines, high ceilings and stylish fittings. The ex-
pansive hotel grounds are fringed by coconut
palms. Staff are very welcoming and meals
are excellent, though no meat, eggs or alco-
hol are served. It’s rightfully the top choice in
town for those who have a generous accom-
modation budget.Subhas HoTel $$
(%222 4923; http://www.subhasgroup.com; 49 Victoria
rd; s/d rs 3500/4500, r with air-con rs 4000–7900;
aW) Straight out of the Soviet school of
architecture, this concrete hotel is actually a
pretty good bet if you want a central location.
There are four classes of rooms, from dark
and few-frills to modern and spacious with
fancy furnishings.The dining room is a bit of an after-
thought at the rear of the compound; there
are better places to eat in town close by.Lux Etoiles HoTel $$
(%222 3966; http://www.luxetoiles.com; 34 Chetty st
ln; d with air-con rs 4070-6270; aWs) Set on
a quiet suburban street, initial impressions
are good – there’s a vintage Austin automo-
bile in the lobby that seems to be more an art
statement than a representation of a place to
park. However, the smallish tiled rooms are
plain and pretty overpriced for what you get.
The large pool is big enough for laps, but
not really the place to lounge with a cocktail.Fits Pavilion HoTel $$
(%222 3790, 077 234 8888; http://www.fitsair.
com; 40 Kandy rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast rs
8500/10,348/12,200; aW) A stylish converted
villa, with seven tastefully decorated rooms
that feature handsome dark wood furniture
and ochre paintwork, and a lovely lounge
with tribal artefacts. However, it lacks some-
what in terms of atmosphere and service.
Excellent food is available, including filling
Western breakfasts.
It’s on a main road, but set back from traf-
fic. The airline Fits Air has an office here.Fits Margosa HIsTorIC HoTel $$$
(%224 0242; http://www.fitsair.com; s tation rd, urelu
North; s/d incl breakfast from us$111/123; aW)
This stunning 19th-century colonial manor
house in landscaped gardens has beautifully
presented accommodation, most with open-
air bathrooms. Perhaps a little overpriced, it’s
nonetheless worth a splurge; the restaurant
has great local and Western food.
As it’s 10km north of the city, it’s only
really a good option for those with their own
transport.5 ating & DrinkingE
Jaffna is a good place to try South Indian–
style cuisine. Red-hued pittu (rice flour and
coconut, steamed in bamboo), idiyappam
(string hoppers or steamed noodles) and
vadai (deep-fried doughnut-shaped snacks
made from lentil flour and spices) are local
favourites. Booze-wise, there are limited wa-
tering holes as Jaffna is a conservative town;
hotel bars are your best bet.
Jaffna Market (p269) is the best place to
buy fresh food, but if you need a supermarket
Food City (Cargills sq, Hospital rd; h7am-9pm)
stocks both international and local foods.