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Hindu Congress, and the Naguleswaram tem-
ple has reopened, along with a new madham
for pilgrims. Work is ongoing to revive the
complex further, and ensure Naguleswaram
and its sacred spring is once again a place of
pilgrimage and prayer.
Legend has it that the sacred Keerimalai
spring became famous after the 7th-century
visit by a Chola princess: not only was her
digestive disorder instantly healed when she
bathed in the waters and prayed to Muru-
gan, but so was her facial deformity, which,
according to one source, had the ‘likeness of
a horse’s head’. Even if your face doesn’t look
like a horse, the spring is a beautiful little
spot: the men’s side has a picturesque stepped
pool of bright aquamarine water set against
the sea, while the women have a smaller pool
nearby surrounded by tall walls (for the best,
really). The waters are supposed to be healing,
and there are changing rooms on-site; wom-
en should bathe in something modest. Jaffna
buses/minibuses are Rs 30 to the spring, or
get a three-wheeler from the Tellippalai bus
stand for Rs 350/600 one way/round trip.
If you’re heading east after Keerimalai
you’ll have to first return south along the
AB16 highway to Chunnakam before you
can cut across via Puttur towards Valvettitu-
rai and Point Pedro. You’ll pass the excellent,
old-fashioned Sri Murugan Café (Vakaiadi; rice& curry rs 180; h5am-9pm) for rice and curry
3km west of Puttur.
For a more scenic drive, consider heading
west along the newly upgraded coastal road
from Keerimalai spring, which hugs a palm-
fringed shoreline. There are no real sights
this way, but the scenery is sublime, with a
sparkling ocean offshore. Inevitably there are
also plenty of reminders of the war, including
bombed churches and battle-ravaged build-
ings. The navy now occupies a lot of the coast-
al land in these parts, and is busy developing
a couple of hotels for tourism. At the tiny
settlement of Ponnalai, 16km from Keerima-
lai, you’ll reach the causeway for the island of
Karainagar.Valvettiturai
On the way to Valvettiturai (VVT) is the
charming, waterfront Selvachannithy
Murugan Kovil (also known as Sella San-
nathy Kovil) in Thondaimanaru. Like so
many places on the peninsula it was severe-
ly damaged during the war, but today the
important Murugan temple is a scenic stop,
with a lively puja.
The gorgeous coast road leads east to
VVT, once a rich smuggling town but now
most famous as the birthplace of LTTE lead-
er Vellupillai Prabhakaran. Known for his::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::66
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úÞÞÞú##ÚHammenhiel Fort
FerryHigh Security
ZoneJaffna
LagoonPalk StraitEluvaitivu
AnalaitivuNainativu
(Nagadipa)KaraitivuPuliyantivuMandaitivuPunkudutivuVelanaiChaatty
BeachMunai
Beach
Casuarina
BeachAyanar
KovilPalali AirportPunkudutivuKarampanKaytsSuruvil VelanaiPoonerynPoint PedroKodikamamValvettiturai
(VVT)NelliadyKankesanturai
(KKS)
TellippalaiAvarangal
Manipay Chunnakam Puttur
VaddukkodaiKarainagarKurikadduwan (KKD)ChavakachcheriJaffna4738109213121651131CB C2312BAA DDJaffna Peninsula e#^0105 mile0ksm
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Neduntivu
(4km)