Colombo
Colombo
Drinking & Nightlife
Colombo
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of Indian sweets but this tiny open-fronted
shop is the best. An array of treats sits col-
ourfully in the display cases. We especially
like the thick and chewy nut musket. Buy by
weight to go or grab a cool juice at a table at
the back. The engaging staff will explain the
many offerings.oHansa Coffee CAFE $
(Map p68; %311 6579; 24 Fife Rd, Col 5; snacks
from Rs 200; h9am-7pm; a) Colombo’s best
cup of coffee? We think so. Away from the
Starbucks clones of Cinnamon Gardens, this
simple storefront brews up any kind of cof-
fee you can imagine using beans of the ca-
fe’s namesake owner, Sri Lanka’s best coffee
producer.Katpaham Restaurant SR i lANKAN $
(Map p68; %725 3157; 244 galle Rd, Col 6; mains
Rs 100-200; h8am-10pm) Curries of every kind
plus hoppers (bowl-shaped pancakes) are
perfectly spicy at this storefront cafe which
specialises in Jaffna cuisine. Beautiful roast
chickens in display cases await consumption.oYaal Restaurant JAFFNA $$
(56 Vaverset Pl, Col 6; mains Rs 400-600; h10am-
10pm) The unique spicy cuisine of Jaffna’s
Tamils features at this simple yet very tidy
restaurant across from the seashore. The
speciality is the truly unique odiyal kool, a
famous Jaffna dish consisting of vegetables
and seafood combined in a creamy porridge.
Also popular is the crab curry.
A nearby competitor named Yarl is cheap-
er and less polished.Curry Leaves iNDiAN $$
(Map p68; %566 3322; 68 WA Silva Mawatha, Col
6; mains Rs 400-800; h11am-3pm, 5-11pm; a)
South Indian is served in well-mannered
surrounds at this very popular restaurant.
Besides good versions of the standards it has
a good selection of crab at popular prices.
The once Catholic (1853) and now Anglican
St Paul Milagiriya is across the road.5 Mt Lavinia
The beachfront here is lined with cafes
offering up drinks (cold Lions at sunset are
Rs 200 to Rs 400), simple meals and sea-
food. Cross the tracks at any of many points
and see what you find.oBu Ba CAFE $$
(Map p 70 ; %273 2190; Mt lavinia beach; mains
Rs 800-3200; h8am-midnight) With candlelittables right on the sandy beach, this seafood
pub is a hidden treat. In the heat of the day
you can retreat under the grove of palm
trees; at night let the sky open overhead and
the starlight rain down. Weekend dance par-
ties are sometimes held here. To find it, walk
south alongside the tracks from Mt Lavinia
train station – about 100m.Lavinia Breeze SEAFOOD $$
(Map p70; %420 3781; off De Saram Rd; mains Rs
800-2000; h11am-11pm) One of the more ap-
pealing of the Mt Lavinia beach cafes, the
tables here are in a nice compound near the
surf. If you want to caress something firmer
with your toes there is an upstairs terrace.
The long menu boasts cocktails and seafood
in profusion.La Voile Blanche CAFE $$
(Map p70; 43/10 Beach Rd; mains from Rs 500;
h11am-11pm) Amid the often rather shabby
Mt Lavinia beachfront cafes, this vision in
white stands out. Under seven iconic palm
trees, a range of comfy chairs and loung-
ers beckons. The drinks list is long and the
menu offers up sandwiches, pasta and sea-
food. Look for the cafe across the tracks be-
hind the Mount Breeze Hotel.6 Drinking & Nightlife
Finding a spot for sunset drinks is an essen-
tial experience (try Galle Face Green or Mt
Lavinia); otherwise, many of the best cafes
are good for a drink (notably T-Lounge,
Barefoot Garden Cafe and Ceylon Tea
Moments). Note that last call comes early:
technically 11pm, although many places
keep pouring much later.
Colombo’s club scene is burgeoning with
the rest of the capital’s nightlife. Indie loca-
tions are thriving.oQbaa MUSiC BAR
(Map p68; %077 711 5011; 2 De Fonseka Rd, Col 5;
h6pm-late) Some of Colombo’s best bands
are booked in this exposed-brick-walled
venue nightly. It’s the kind of place where
patrons swap tales of their favourite don at
Oxbridge while knocking back good wines
and champagne cocktails. The bar is tiny,
the ho-hum adjoining restaurant isn’t.41 Sugar l OUNgE
(Map p64; %268 2122; 41 Maitland Crescent, Col 7;
h6pm-midnight) Rise above it all at this styl-
ish rooftop cocktail lounge. Long tables have
views of the ever-growing Colombo skyline.
Inside there’s lots of low leather sofas for