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bathrooms, with walk-in showers and cir-
cular baths, actually are perfect. There’s an
impressive pool complex (which is a hit with
children) that’s lit up at night by flaming
torches.
There’s even an in-house naturalist who
will happily answer all of your birds-and-
bees questions.Ayurveda Pavilions B oUTIQUE HoTEL $$$
(map p88; %227 6719; http://www.ayurvedapavilions.com;
Porutota Rd; villa s/d incl breakfast from US$245/265;
aiWs) Beautiful mud-wall villas with
minimalist yet luxurious furnishings. The
bathrooms are the real highlights and soaking
in one of the steamy, flower-petal-covered out-
door baths with someone special on a rainy
afternoon is every bit as romantic as you’d
expect. There’s a large range of treatments
(available to nonguests from US$35), which
are included in the room price.5 Eating
There are lots of very so-so restaurants and
cafes stringing the main road along the beach,
with more exciting options in between.Petit Restaurant SRI LANKAN, SEAFooD $$
(map p88; %077 628 7682; 100/7 A Palangath-
uraya; mains around Rs 750; h11am-10pm) Potted
plants and flowers surround the entrance of
this suitably small, family-run restaurant.
The menu skips through most of the Sri Lan-
kan classics but is especially strong on sea-
food; there are some more unusual dishes on
offer such as the ‘prawn fiesta’ (essentially
prawns dusted in coconut shavings).
It’s very popular so reservations are a good
idea; be warned that the wait for your meal
can be a long one.Dolce Vita ITALIAN $$
(map p88; %227 4968; Porutota Rd 27; mains
around Rs 650; h9am-10pm Tue-Sun) This sim-
ple Italian-owned beachside cafe and restau-
rant is the kind of place where people end
up frittering away half a day, sitting in the
breezy shade, drinking real coffee and fruit
juice, and tucking into fair pizza and pasta
dishes (as well as some local offerings).Tusker Restaurant SEAFooD $$
(map p88; %222 6999; 83 Ethukala Rd; mains
Rs 700-1000; h5-11pm Sun-Fri, 2-11pm Sat) The
contemporary, elephant-lined Tuskers is
one of the smarter places to eat in town.
Although its menu is wide ranging in its
geo-culinary diversity, it’s strong point is
seafood. It would be amiss not to mentionthe warm welcome extended by the couple
who own it.oLords FUSIoN $$$
(map p88; %227 5655; http://www.lordsrestaurant.net;
80B Porutota Rd; dishes Rs 850-1400; h11.30am-
2.30pm & 6-10pm) By far Negombo’s most
creative eating experience with dishes
that are a hybrid of Western and Eastern
flavours. Martin, the British owner of this
restaurant–gallery, is a rare thing among
expat restaurant owners in that he actually
works on the floor and in the kitchen, mak-
ing sure that everything is just spot on.6 Drinking
Rodeo Pub PUB
(map p88; %227 4713; 35 Porutota Rd; h10am-
around midnight) Graffiti-sprayed bar busy
with expats and tourists. There’s live music
on Tuesday nights, DJs the rest of the time
and a long list of cocktails with sexy names.
They also do a range of classic Western and
Sri Lankan dishes.Ice Bear Century Cafe CAFE
(map p 87 ; %223 8097; 25 main St; h9am-6pm)
In a lovingly restored peach-pink colonial-
era townhouse, this calm retreat in the heart
of Negombo offers a touch of refined class,
all manner of Sri Lankan brews, mountains
of homemade cakes and biscuits, and lunch
specials such as Thai noodle soups and Hun-
garian goulash.Cafe J CAFE
(map p88; Jetwing Blue, Ethukala; h7.30am-9pm)
Part of the Jetwing Blue hotel complex,
Cafe J is a sunny, open-plan street-side cafe
and juice bar (it also sells stronger tipples).
With its poppy Western coffeeshop vibes, it’s
about as far removed from a typical Sri Lan-
kan working man’s tea shop as you can get.8 Information
There are numerous internet and telephone
offices scattered along Lewis Pl and Porutota Rd,
as well as near the bus and train stations. If this
is your first stop in Sri Lanka, hotels can fix you
up with guides and drivers for trips elsewhere in
the country.
Bank of Ceylon ( map p 87 ; Broadway) In the
centre of town; with ATm.
Post Office ( map p 87 ; main St) This post office
is in the centre of town.
Tourist Police ( map p 88 ; %227 5555;
Ethukala; h24hr) At the northern end of the
hotel strip, the tourist police should be your
first port of call in an emergency.