Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
EAT iNG
Rajasthan
PUSHKAR
on three levels, with traditionally crafted
furniture and comfortable beds. On the
roof you’ll find the excellent Sixth Sense
restaurant as well as sofas and swing chairs
for relaxing with a book. Early booking
(two-night minimum, no credit cards) is
recommended.
Hotel ̈Shannu’s ̈Ranch ̈Inn ̈GUESTHOUSE $$
(%2772043; http://www.shannus.weebly.com; Panch
Kund Marg; s/d ₹500/600) Especially for horse
lovers but not exclusively so, this relaxed,
family-run hotel is a 10-minute walk from
the lake. Rustic, brick-walled rooms with
white-tiled bathrooms share a garden with
the horse stables housing Marc Dansereau’s
beloved Marwari horses. Marc, a French-
Canadian who has been in India for almost
30 years, is a self-confessed hippy, a won-
derfully laid-back guy and great to hang out
with. Horse riding and home-cooked meals
are available. To get here, walk along Ajmer
Rd, away from the lake, and take the second
right after the large gurdwara (Sikh tem-
ple), then fork left at Little Italy restaurant;
Shannu’s will be on your left.
Hotel ̈Kanhaia ̈Haveli ̈ HOTEl $$
(%2772146; http://www.pushkarhotelkanhaia.com; Chotti
Basti; r ₹300-1750; aiW) With a vast range
of rooms, from cheap budget digs to smart
air-conditioned doubles and suites, you are
sure to find a room and price that suits
at this converted courtyard hotel. As you
spend more the rooms get bigger and light-
er with more windows and even balconies.
Hotel ̈Navaratan ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $$
(%2772145; http://www.pushkarnavaratanpalace.co.in;
s/d from ₹400/500, with AC ₹700/800; as)
Slightly characterless but well-run hotel
with simple clean rooms and a lovely en-
closed garden with swimming pool. Note
the hotel’s strange decision to segregate pool
users so that foreigners (noon to 5pm) and
Indians (9.30am to 11.30am and 5.30pm to
7pm) cannot swim together.
Hotel ̈Pushkar ̈Palace ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2772001; http://www.hotelpushkarpalace.com; r incl
breakfast ₹7000; ai) Once belonging to the
Maharaja of Kishangarh, this top-end hotel
boasts a romantic lakeside setting. Beauti-
fully appointed rooms have carved wooden
furniture and separate dressing areas lead-
ing into exquisite bathrooms. Rooms open
onto a shared verandah which overlooks the
central garden and has views of the lake. No
internet and no swimming pool, but rooms
do have coffee makers and flat-screen TVs.
Expect 40% discounts when it’s quiet.5 ̈Eating
Almost all accommodation in Pushkar has
its own cafe-restaurant, open to nonguests
and often located on a rooftop.oHoney ̈& ̈Spice ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(laxmi Market off Sadar Bazaar; mains ₹90-150;h7.30am-6.45pm) (^) S This unassuming cafe-
restaurant is pretty much unique in Push-
kar, with its emphasis on super-healthy food
rather than lake views. It’s tucked away be-
hind shops on Sadar Bazaar so that nothing
can distract you from the fabulous menu,
which is small but outstanding. Offerings
such as ‘exotic stir fry in ginger and honey
sauce’ share space with a selection of im-
aginative salads, pastas, juices and herbal
teas. There are vegan options too and the
breakfast menu – brown toasts, fresh fruits,
porridge, muesli – is equally healthy, while
the fresh coffee (from ₹50) includes blends
infused with spices such as cardamon and
cinnamon.
Sunset ̈Café ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(mains ₹75-200; h7.30am-midnight; W) Right
on the eastern ghats, this cafe has uninter-
rupted lake views. It offers the usual trav-
eller menu, including well-priced Indian
dishes, pizza and pasta, plus there’s a Ger-
man bakery serving OK cakes. As the name
suggests, the lakeshore setting is perfect at
sunset, but this is also a pleasant spot for
breakfast (espresso ₹60).
Shri ̈Vankatesh ̈ DHABA $
(Chooti Basti; mains ₹40-90; h9am-10pm) If
you’re sick of pizza, pasta and espresso, head
to this no-nonsense local favourite and tuck
into some dhal, paneer or kofta, before mop-
ping up the sauce with freshly baked chapa-
tis and washing it all down with some good
chai (₹10). The thalis (₹60 to ₹100) are good
value too, and there’s some upstairs seating
overlooking the street. Not much English
spoken, but has an English menu.
Om ̈Shiva ̈Garden ̈Restaurant ̈MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(%5105045; mains ₹70-170; h7.30am-late) This
traveller stalwart continues to satisfy with
its well-priced Indian dishes, wood-fired piz-
zas and decent sandwiches. The shaded gar-
den setting is cool and peaceful and there’s
fresh coffee too.