India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

Rajasthan

SOUTHERN

R AJASTHAN

Rajasthan

iNFORMAT

iON

Rajasthan

CH iTTORGARH (CH

iTTOR)

inner courtyard and are simple but kept

clean, and come with TV and a bathroom

with squat toilet.

Hotel ̈Pratap ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $$

(%240099; http://www.hotelpratappalacechittaurgarh.

com; r without/with AC ₹1250/1850; ai) The

Pratap’s rooms are smart, spacious and clean,

and come with cute bay-window seating.

Staff members are helpful and there’s a good

restaurant (mains ₹150-250; h7am-10.30pm)

with tables spilling out into a pleasant gar-

den. They have wi-fi in the lobby, and even

a bar (beer ₹250). The only downside is the

location – a long trek from the fort (although

admittedly handy for the train station).

oPadmini ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$

(%241251, 94141410090; http://www.thepadminihaveli.

com; Annapoorna Temple Rd, Shah Chowk, Chittor-

garh Fort; r incl breakfast ₹3200; aiW) Housed

in a 90-year-old converted school, and the

only nonpilgrim accommodation within

the fort itself, this fabulous guesthouse was

designed by a Swiss couple, but is now run

locally. Stylish but understated rooms come

with spotless, granite-clad bathrooms, and

are dotted around open-air courtyards in

a design that makes wonderful use of lim-

ited space. There’s home-cooked vegetar-

ian meals (in fact, you can just drop by for

lunch; ₹400), rooftop views, bicycle rental

(per day ₹100) and free wi-fi throughout.

The staff (who speak French and English)

can act as guides for your exploration of

the fort (per three-hour tour ₹500). The vil-

lage location is charming too. After walk-

ing through Ram Pol on your way up to the

fort, take the lane at the far left-hand corner

of the small square, then take the first left

(just after the lane bears round to the right).

Walk a short way down here then take the

second right (just before a tall pink build-

ing) and look for a whitewashed building

with a chunky wooden door as its entrance.

There’s no number and no name, but if you

ask locals for ‘haveli’ they’ll point you in the

right direction.

Chokhi ̈Dhani ̈

Garden ̈Family ̈Restaurant ̈ DHABA $

(Bundi Rd; mains ₹50-130; h11am-10pm) Fan-

cooled roadside dhaba with extra seating

in the backyard. Does a range of good-value

vegetarian dishes including South Indian

and thalis.

Saffire ̈Garden ̈Restaurant ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $$

(City Rd; mains ₹100-150; h8am-10pm) Sit at

tables on the small, tree-shaded lawn or in-

side the air-conditioned room at the back,

and tuck into a variety of standard but tasty-

enough Indian and Chinese dishes. Saffire

is located behind – and shares its grounds

with – Hotel Vishal, a decent budget hotel

(rooms from ₹500) which, annoyingly, tends

not to accept foreigners.

8    Information

You can access an ATM and change money at the

SBBJ (Bhilwara Rd), and there’s an ATM at SBI

(Bundi Rd).

Mahavir Cyber Cafe (Collectorate Circle; per

hr ₹25; h9am-10pm)

Tourist Reception Centre (%241089; Station

Rd; h10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) Friendly

and helpful, with a town map and brochure to

give out.

8 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away

BUS

There are no direct buses to Bundi. Services

from Chittorgarh include:

Ajmer (₹149, four hours, hourly from 7am to

3pm)

MAJOR ̈TRAINS ̈FROM ̈CHITTORGARH ̈

DESTINATION TRAIN

DEPARTURE

TIME

ARRIVAL

TIME FARE (₹)

Ajmer 12991 Udaipur-Jaipur Exp 8.42am 11.25pm 75/273/395 (A)

Bundi 29019 NMH-Kota Exp 2.55pm 5.33pm 120/610 (B)

Delhi (Nizamuddin) 12964 Mewat Exp 8.50pm 6.30am 274/742 (C)

Jaipur 12991 Udaipur-Jaipur Exp 8.42am 1.25pm 102/374/565 (A)

Sawai Madhopur 29019 NMH-Kota Exp 2.55pm 9.10pm 146/610 (B)

Udaipur 19329 Udaipur City Exp 4.35pm 7pm 120/244 (C)

Fares: (A) 2nd-class seat/AC chair/1st-class seat, (B) sleeper/2AC, (C) sleeper/3AC