India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

Rajasthan

SOUTHERN

R AJASTHAN

Rajasthan

FEST iVA lS & E VENTS

Rajasthan

UDA iPUR

a successful local musician who gives sitar,

tabla and flute lessons. He also sells and re-

pairs instruments (sitars from ₹8500) and

can arrange performances. You can buy

signed CDs of his performances for around

₹300.

Painting

Hotel ̈Krishna ̈Niwas ̈ PA iNT iNG

(%2420163; http://www.hotelkrishnaniwas.com; 35 lal

Ghat; 2hr class ₹850; h11am-7pm) Jairaj Soni

is a renowned artist who teaches miniature

and classical painting. You can buy mini-

ature paintings here too.

Ashoka ̈Arts ̈ PA iNT iNG

(Hotel Gangaur Palace; per hr ₹150) Here you

can learn the basics of classic miniature

painting.

z ̈Festivals ̈& ̈Events

In March or April the procession-heavy Me-

war ̈Festival is Udaipur’s own version of the

springtime Gangaur festival, with free cul-

tural programs.

4 ̈Sleeping

Accommodation clusters where most people

want to stay – close to the lake, especially on

its eastern side near Lal Ghat. This area is a

tangle of streets and lanes (some quiet, some

busy and noisy), close to the City Palace

and Jagdish Temple. It’s Udaipur’s tourist

epicentre and the streets are strung not just

with lodgings but also with tourist-oriented

eateries and shops whose owners will be do-

ing their best to tempt you in.

Directly across the water from Lal Ghat,

Hanuman Ghat has a slightly more local

vibe and often better views. It’s much more

hassle-free, though you’re certainly not out

of the tourist zone.

To bypass rickshaw drivers looking for

commissions from hotels, use the prepaid

autorickshaw stand outside the train sta-

tion. If you’re heading for the Lal Ghat area

to find accommodation, you can avoid dis-

cussions about individual lodgings by taking

a autorickshaw to the nearby Jagdish Tem-

ple (about ₹40 from the main bus stand),

then walking.

4    Lal Ghat Area

Lal ̈Ghat ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $

(%2525301; http://www.lalghat.com; 33 lal Ghat; dm

₹150, r without/with bathroom from ₹200/600;

aiW) This mellow guesthouse by the lake

has been run by the same family since 1982

and was one of the first to open in Udaipur.

It’s still an excellent budget choice, with an

amazing variety of older and newer rooms.

Most rooms have lake views and those in

the older part of the building (17th century)

have plenty of character, although some are

pretty basic. There’s a small kitchen for self-

caterers, wi-fi in some areas and the shaded

central courtyard is a pleasant space.

Nukkad ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $

(%2411403; [email protected]; 56 Ganesh

Ghati; r ₹300-500, s/d without bathroom ₹100/200;

iW) Always busy with travellers, Nukkad

has a relaxed atmosphere and a sociable,

breezy upstairs restaurant with good Indian

and international dishes (mains ₹60 to ₹85).

Your hosts Raju and Kala are helpful, and

you can join afternoon cooking classes and

morning yoga sessions without stepping

out the door. Rooms are simple, fan-cooled,

clean and decent value; there’s plenty of hot

water and many rooms have cushioned win-

dow seats. Wi-fi wasn’t working when we

were here, but should be available.

Jheel ̈Palace ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $$

(%2421352; http://www.jheelguesthouse.com; 56 Gan-

gaur Ghat; r ₹1000-3000; aW) Right on the

lake edge (when the lake is full), Jheel Pal-

ace has three nice rooms with little balco-

nies and four-poster beds, and three more

ordinary ones. All are small but well kept.

Staff are accommodating and hands-off, and

there’s a good Brahmin pure veg rooftop ̈

restaurant (mains ₹95-125, no beer). To one

side of the the lobby, and right beside the

water’s edge, is Jheel’s ̈Ginger ̈Coffee ̈Bar ̈

(coffee ₹50-100; h8am-8pm), which has free

wi-fi and does excellent coffee. Across the

street, Old ̈Jheel ̈Guest ̈House has three

budget rooms (₹300, ₹400 and ₹500) which

are clean and comfortable, if a little spartan.

Hotel ̈Gangaur ̈Palace ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$

(%2422303; http://www.ashokahaveli.com; Gadiya Devra;

s ₹400-2000, d ₹500-2500; aiW) This elabo-

rate and faded 250-year-old haveli is set

around a stone-pillared courtyard, with a

wide assortment of rooms on several floors.

It’s gradually moving upmarket and rooms

range from windowless with flaking paint

to bright and recently decorated with lake

views. The hotel also boasts an in-house

palm reader, an art school, the good Cafe

Namaste and a rooftop restaurant. Wi-fi

reaches to some rooms.