Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
EAT iNG
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
a 10-minute walk from Gandhi Chowk, en-
joys a wonderfully peaceful location beneath
the royal chhatri. Rooms are cool, clean and
comfortable, and the rooftop vegetarian
restaurant has fort and chhatri views. It’s
₹50 to ₹60 in an auto from the train station,
but there’s free pick-up if you call ahead. If
you’re walking here, head north from Hanu-
man Circle until you reach Marina Mahal
Jain Restaurant (500m) on your left. Desert
Moon is down a track about 100m behind
this restaurant.Shahi ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $$
(%255920; http://www.shahipalacehotel.com; off Shiv
Rd; r ₹550-2050; aiW) A modern building
in traditional style with some lovely carved
sandstone, Shahi has attractive rooms,
though a limited number have natural light.
The multicuisine rooftop restaurant (mains
₹80 to ₹200) is also decent. Reasonably pop-
ular, but there are plenty of spillover rooms
in their nearby sister properties Star ̈Haveli
and Oasis ̈Haveli.KB ̈Lodge ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%253833; http://www.killabhawan.com; Patwa Haveli; r
₹1800, with AC ₹2500; aW) Under the same
management as the luxury Hotel Killa Bha-
wan, KB Lodge has more of a guesthouse
feel to it, with just five stylish rooms in a
small building overlooking the plaza behind
Patwa Haveli. There’s wi-fi throughout and
the pleasant rooftop restaurant, KB Cafe,
has delightful views of the old town and the
fort.Hotel ̈Nachana ̈Haveli ̈HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%252110; http://www.nachanahaveli.com; Gandhi
Chowk; s/d ₹3150/3500; ai) This 280-year-
old royal haveli, set around three court-
yards – one with a tinkling fountain – is a
fascinating hotel. The raw sandstone rooms
have arched stone ceilings and the ambience
of a medieval castle. They are sumptuously
and romantically decorated, though some
lack much natural light.1st ̈Gate ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%8696008365; http://www.1stgate.in; r incl breakfast
₹6500; aiW) Italian-designed and super
slick, this newcomer is Jaisalmer’s most so-
phisticated modern hotel and it is beautiful
throughout. The location lends it one of the
most dramatic fort views in town, especially
from its split-level open-air restaurant-cafe.
Rooms are immaculate and the food (Italian
and Indian) and coffee are top notch. Wi-fi
throughout. No pool.Mandir ̈Palace ̈Hotel ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%252788; http://www.mandirpalace.com; Gandhi
Chowk; s/d ₹6000/7000; aiWs) Jaisalm-
er’s erstwhile royal family still lives in this
sprawling 18th-century palace just inside
the town walls. Some rooms are full of char-
acter, the newer ones less so. Staff can be
distant.4 In the Fort
Hotel ̈Siddhartha ̈ HOTEl $
(%253614; [email protected]; r ₹400-
800; iW) Just past the Jain temples, little
Siddhartha has well-kept, tile-floored rooms,
plus one lovely stone-walled room that
hasn’t been renovated.Desert ̈Boy’s ̈Guest ̈House ̈ ̈HER iTAGE HOTEl $$
(%253091; http://www.desertboysguesthouse.com;
₹500-3000) Has 15 beautifully decorated
rooms. The cheaper ones have interior
windows, but others have sweeping desert
views. Rooms are bright and colourful, bath-
rooms are modern and the place is littered
with antique-looking furniture. Wi-fi in
some areas only. Restaurant has great views.Hotel ̈Suraj ̈ HER iTAGE GUESTHOUSE $$
(%251623; http://www.hotelsurajjaisalmer.webs.com;
r ₹850-1550) Enchanting family-run guest-
house with four unique rooms that come
with cute alcoves, side rooms, stone floors,
stone pillars and even faded old paintings
on some of the stone walls. Bathrooms are
very basic, but have hot-water showers. Two
rooms have good views. The same family
that lives here runs the small but modern
Hotel Suraj Vilas opposite (r ₹500 to ₹1000).Hotel ̈Killa ̈Bhawan ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%251204; http://www.killabhawan.com; 445 Kotri Para;
r incl breakfast ₹6500-11,000; aiW) A mini-
labyrinth of a place combining three old
houses set right on the fort walls. French-
owned and designed, it has vividly coloured
rooms, attractive little sitting areas and all
sorts of intriguing arts and crafts. Rooms
are small for the prices, but are decorated
exquisitely. No restaurant, but tea, coffee
and breakfast are all included.5 ̈Eating
Chandan ̈Shree ̈Restaurant ̈ PUNJABi $
(near Hanuman Circle; mains ₹50-130; h7am-
11pm) Very popular local favourite and a
great spot for South Indian breakfasts. The
speciality, though, is Punjabi vegetarian.
Also does thalis. No booze.