India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

Rajasthan

WESTERN

R AJASTHAN

Rajasthan

DRiNK iNG

Rajasthan

Bi KANER

Laxmi ̈Hotel ̈ DHABA $

(Station Rd; mains ₹50-90, thalis ₹60-100; h8am-

10pm) One of a number of simple roadside

dhabas near the train station, Laxmi is

open to the street and dishes up tasty, fresh

vegetarian thalis. You can see the roti being

flipped in front of you.

Garden ̈Café ̈ CAFE $

(off KEM Rd; dishes ₹50-100; h8am-8pm) Pre-

viously the excellent Pause Café, this one-

time travellers’ hang-out, housed in part of

a 160-year-old building, has changed names

and management and is more rundown

these days. It still boasts a nice garden set-

ting, though. Food is simple – toast, salads,

rice, dhal – but tasty enough for the price.

Coffee is instant only, but the lassis are good.

A warning: camel-safari operators tout for

business here and can be annoying if all

you’re after is a cup of tea.

oGallops ̈ iND iAN $$

(mains ₹200-400; h10am-10pm) This modern-

ish cafe-restaurant, known as ‘Glops’ to

rickshaw-wallahs, is close to the Junagarh

entrance and has walls adorned with old

photographs of royal polo matches. There

are snacks such as pizzas, pakoras and sand-

wiches, but it’s the good range of delicious

Indian curries that stands out, plus the cold

beer (₹250) and espresso coffee (₹100). You

can cool off in the air-conditioned interior or

sit outside on the large patio.

Bhanwar ̈Niwas ̈ iND iAN $$$

(%2529323; Rampuria St; set dinner ₹600; h7.30-

9.30pm) A splendid place to eat, this beauti-

ful hotel welcomes nonguests to its veg din-

ing hall for dinner (reservations essential).

You can have a drink beforehand in the

courtyard.

6 ̈Drinking

Gallops restaurant is also a pleasant spot for

a beer.

Bhairon ̈Vilas ̈ BAR

(beer ₹175; h6.30-10.30pm) Like something

off the set of The Addams Family, this ec-

centric hotel bar is full of nooks and cran-

nies, moody lighting and quirky heritage

decor. The manager is young, friendly and

chatty, and there’s outdoor seating too, on

a well-kept lawn. The menu extends to

whiskey, rum and vodka as well as beer and

wine.

Heeralal ̈Hotel ̈ BAR

(beer small/large ₹90/150; hnoon-10.30pm)

Dark and seedy-looking, low-lit basement

bar with well-priced beers and spirits.

8    Information

You’ll find a number of ATMs outside the main

train station. The State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur

changes cash and travellers cheques.

Agarwal Internet (per hr ₹25; h10am-10pm)

Fast connection. Has Skype facilities.

Main Post Office (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-

2pm Sat) Near Bhairon Vilas hotel.

8 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away

BUS

There’s a private bus stand outside the south

wall of Junagarh with similar services (albeit

slightly more expensive and less frequent) to

the government-run services from the main bus

stand, which is 2km directly north of the fort

(autorickshaw ₹20).

Services from the main bus stand include the

following. Note, for Jaisalmer, you must change

at Pokaran.

Delhi (₹333, 11 hours, 4.15am, 7am, 7.45am,

8.30am, 9.15am and 6.30pm)

Deshnok (₹25, one hour, half-hourly until

5.30pm)

Fatehpur (₹130, 3½ hours, half-hourly until

5.45pm)

Jaipur (₹238, 7 hours, half-hourly until

5.45pm)

Jhunjhunu (₹200, five hours, 4.15am, 7am,

7.45am, 8.30am, 9.15am and 6.30pm)

Jodhpur (₹181, five hours, half-hourly until

5.30pm)

Pokaran (₹167, five hours, hourly until 2.30pm)

Pushkar (₹186, six hours, half-hourly until

6pm)

MAJOR ̈TRAINS ̈FROM ̈BIKANER ̈JUNCTION ̈

DESTINATION TRAIN

DEPARTURE

TIME ARRIVAL TIME

FARE (₹;

SLEEPER/3AC)

Delhi (S Rohilla) 12458 Bikaner-Dee SF Exp 11pm 6.20am 220/582

Jodhpur 14887 KlK-BME Exp 11.05am 3.45pm 146/394

Jaipur 09733 HMH-Kota Special 11pm 5.30am 178/496