Morocco Travel Guide

LOCAL

LOCAL

LOCAL

LOCAL

CAFE,   SANDWICH    SHOP

11am-10.30pm; ) Finally, an à la carte menu that’s easy on the wallet and kind to the
tastebuds. Head to the rooftop for a merguez sausage sandwich or garlicky courgette salad, or
hang out in the primary-coloured salon for restorative vervain tea infusions and free wi-fi. Unless
you have a Moroccan grandma, this is the place to go for Friday couscous, properly fluffy and
infused with fragrant smen (seasoned butter). It’s near Rue Dar el-Bacha.

Tobsil $$$

Offline map Google  map (    0524   44  40  52; 22  Derb    Abdellah    ben Hessaien;   5-course    menu    incl

wine Dh600; 7.30-11pm Wed-Mon) In this intimate riad near Bab Ksour, 50 guests max
indulge in button-popping, five-course Moroccan menus with aperitifs and wine pairings, as
Gnawa musicians strum quietly in the courtyard. No excess glitz or belly dancers distract from
noble attempts to finish 11 salads, pastilla, tajines (yes, that’s plural) and couscous, capped
with mint tea, fresh fruit and Moroccan pastries. Booking required.

Dar Mimoun $$

Offline map Google  map (    0524   44  33  48; 1   Derb    ben Amrane, cnr Rue Riad    Zitoun  el-Kedim;

mains from Dh80; noon-11pm) Stagger in from the souqs and feel instantly revived in an
arcaded courtyard restaurant that’s all soothing greenery, blue and white zellij, and tantalising
aromas of classic chicken, prune and almond tajine. Get yours à la carte or as part of a Dh130
set menu with salads, tea and sweets, served in the garden or cupola-capped dining alcoves.

Chegrouni $

Offline map Google  map (   Djemaa  el-Fna; tajine  Dh60-70,    omelette    Dh25-35;     8am-11pm;   )

You’re expected to write down your own order, but your server could probably guess it anyway:
you’re either a foodie here for the classic Dh60 tajine with chicken, preserved lemons and
olives; a vegetarian in for flavourful vegetable-broth-only, seven-vegetable couscous; or a tajine-
weary traveller in dire need of a decent omelette with superior chips. It’s near Rue des
Banques.

Haj Mustapha $

Offline map Google map ( east side, Souq Ablueh; tanjia with bread & olives Dh35-50; 6-10pm)
As dusk approaches, several stalls set out paper-sealed crockpots of tanjia . This ‘bachelor’s
stew’ makes for messy eating, but Haj Mustapha offers the cleanest seating inside a well-
scuffed stall. Use bread as your utensil to scoop up tanjia, sprinkle with cumin and salt, and
chase with olives.

Café des Épices $

Offline map Google  map (    0254   39  17  70; Pl  Rahba   Kedima; breakfast   Dh25,   sandwich    or

salad Dh25-50; 8am-9pm) Watch the magic happen as you sip freshly squeezed OJ
overlooking the Rahba Kedima potion dealers. Salads and sandwiches are fresh and made to
order – try the tangy chicken spiked with herbs, nutmeg and olives – and service is surprisingly
efficient, given the steep stairs.