ART & CRAFT, CULTURAL CENTREabove the river.
The river has few fish since floods flushed them out years ago, but it does irrigate
exceptionally lovely terraces cultivated by Aafan Berbers. In spring, the area is covered with
wildflowers and blooming fruit and nut trees. Here the Tessaout flows west, fed by streams of
melted mountain snow.
Where the path crosses the river, you can often hop across on stones. In spring, you may
have to wade across the river, as at the village of Imi-n-Ikkis , 5km from Amezri. The village
has a shop (no sign) that sometimes stocks water, soft drinks, tinned food and plastic shoes to
ford rivers.
An hour and a half downstream, the path passes beneath the larger village of Ichbbakene ,
backed by a sheer escarpment. The path becomes a piste (unsealed road), and keeping the
river on your left for another 2½ hours, the piste squeezes between the stone and mud houses
of Aït Hamza . At the bottom of the village is a working water mill , used to grind wheat.
Another hour leads to the village of Aït Ali n’Ito , where you’ll find great views at the Gîte
d’Etape Assounfou ( 066 075060, 024 385747; fax 024 385744; per person Dh50,
breakfast Dh25), plus electricity, hot showers (Dh10), a boutique and even a hammam.
Day 4: Aït Ali n’Ito to Aït Alla
2½-3 HRS/8KM/150M DESCENT
A dirt road leads alongside the river with gentle climbs to the lovely village of Fakhour , where
houses scale the hillside. Fakhour is noted for its agadir (fortified granary), which can be visited
(a Dh10 tip for the guardian is customary).
Less than an hour beyond Fakhour, the village of Ifoulou sits on a bend of the river and road,
drawing villagers from miles around for its Monday souq. From here, a tarmac road leads to
the main Demnate–Skoura road by the bridge over the Tessaout River, below the village of Aït
Alla . Here it’s possible to find transport, although you may need to wait awhile – but after your
M’Goun Traverse, you’ve earned the rest.
Zaouiat Ahansal
You’ll need a 4WD for 40km of piste over the 2629m Tizi n’Tirghist to Zaouiat Ahansal. At the
northern end of Imelghas, there’s a piste that leads left towards Zaouiat Ahansal, and about
15km along atop a rocky hill, there’s another fork in the road and a sign pointing right towards
Zaouiat Ahansal. Stretches of this road are paved, but it’s narrow and slow going along twisting
mountain roads, especially when locals converge on Zaouiat Ahansal’s Monday souq.
Arriving in Zaouiat Ahansal, cross the bridge towards the magnificent mudbrick douar (village)
atop a steep hill; this structure once housed the entire 300-person community. You can stay
here or bunk at gîtes in the surrounding villages of Agoudim, Amezrai and Taghia, the latter
being two hours’ walk upstream. North of town is Ouaouizarht (wah-ri-zat), which has a hotel
and Wednesday souq.