DARMAISON  D’HÔTESCaravane    Hamada  Drâa    Offline map (    0524   84  69  30; www.hamadadraa.com, in  French;
Blvd    Mohammed    V)  English-speaking    guides; treks   to  nomadic camps   by  licensed    guide   and
native  nomad   Youssef M’hidi.
Discovering South   Morocco (    0524   84  61  15; www.discoveringsouthmorocco.com)    Run
by  English-    and French-speaking,    Zagora-born Mohamad Sirirou.
Excursions  Kasbah  Tifawte (    0524   84  88  43; www.tifawte.com)    The kohl-eyed   owner   was
one of  the first   official    guides  in  the south.
Irahalen Offline map ( 0524 84 86 27; www.irahalen.com; Hotel Zagour, Rte de M’Hamid)
Organises   two-    to  14-day  desert  and oasis   excursions; English-speaking    guides  by  prior
arrangement.
QUICK GETAWAY: TINFOU DUNES
The great   inland  sea of  dunes   in  Merzouga    or  Erg Chebbi  can make    this    small   patch   of  two to  three   big dunes   seem    like    a
kiddie  sand    box by  comparison  –   but when    you’d   rather  spend   your    time    relaxing    than    driving,    the Tinfou  Dunes   offer   a   sneak
preview of  Sahara  sand    just    south   of  Zagora. Around  8km south   of  Tamegroute, you’ll  spot    them    on  your    left.   On  busy    days    it
can feel    like    a   playground  here,   but it’s    still   fun to  climb   and run down    the big dunes.  Better  still,  you can get here    and back    in  a
day the time-honoured,  eco-savvy   way:    by  dromedary   from    Zagora  or  Tamegroute.Sleeping
Dar Raha $$
(    0524   84  69  93; www.darraha.com;    Amezrou;    per person  incl    breakfast/half-board
Dh235/310)  ‘How    thoughtful!’    bears   repeating   here,   from    welcoming   gifts   of  dates   to  oasis-
appropriate details like    local   palm    mats,   baskets made    of  recycled    plastic bags    and thick   pisé
walls   eliminating the need    for air-con.    Comfortable,    exposed-mudbrick    rooms   come    with
ghandouras  (robes) for lounging,   but no  en-suite    bathrooms.  Enjoy   home-cooked meals,
admire  local   folk    art in  the courtyard   gallery,    and check   the website for literary    evenings
showcasing  Mid-Eastern authors.    Your    host    Antoine gladly  arranges    visits  to  Amezrou’s   ancient
synagogue,  18th-century    ksar    and village self-help   organisations.
Villa Zagora $$
Offline map (    0524   84  60  93; www.mavillaausahara.com;    d   incl    half-board  withshared/private  bathroom    Dh860/1030, ste Dh1322;  )  Light,  breezy, and naturally
charming,   this    converted   country home    makes   desert  living  look    easy.   French  doors   reveal
plush   Moroccan    carpets,    soaring ceilings,   and an  eclectic    art collection, including   Zagora-
inspired    abstracts.  Staff   fuss    over    you like    Moroccan    relations   you never   knew    you had,    and
marathon    meals   feature oasis-fresh ingredients.    Pool    water   is  wisely  reused  on  aromatic    herb
gardens;    forget  dromedaries and read    your    days    away    on  the verandah.
