DAR
MAISON D’HÔTES
Caravane Hamada Drâa Offline map ( 0524 84 69 30; www.hamadadraa.com, in French;
Blvd Mohammed V) English-speaking guides; treks to nomadic camps by licensed guide and
native nomad Youssef M’hidi.
Discovering South Morocco ( 0524 84 61 15; www.discoveringsouthmorocco.com) Run
by English- and French-speaking, Zagora-born Mohamad Sirirou.
Excursions Kasbah Tifawte ( 0524 84 88 43; www.tifawte.com) The kohl-eyed owner was
one of the first official guides in the south.
Irahalen Offline map ( 0524 84 86 27; www.irahalen.com; Hotel Zagour, Rte de M’Hamid)
Organises two- to 14-day desert and oasis excursions; English-speaking guides by prior
arrangement.
QUICK GETAWAY: TINFOU DUNES
The great inland sea of dunes in Merzouga or Erg Chebbi can make this small patch of two to three big dunes seem like a
kiddie sand box by comparison – but when you’d rather spend your time relaxing than driving, the Tinfou Dunes offer a sneak
preview of Sahara sand just south of Zagora. Around 8km south of Tamegroute, you’ll spot them on your left. On busy days it
can feel like a playground here, but it’s still fun to climb and run down the big dunes. Better still, you can get here and back in a
day the time-honoured, eco-savvy way: by dromedary from Zagora or Tamegroute.
Sleeping
Dar Raha $$
( 0524 84 69 93; www.darraha.com; Amezrou; per person incl breakfast/half-board
Dh235/310) ‘How thoughtful!’ bears repeating here, from welcoming gifts of dates to oasis-
appropriate details like local palm mats, baskets made of recycled plastic bags and thick pisé
walls eliminating the need for air-con. Comfortable, exposed-mudbrick rooms come with
ghandouras (robes) for lounging, but no en-suite bathrooms. Enjoy home-cooked meals,
admire local folk art in the courtyard gallery, and check the website for literary evenings
showcasing Mid-Eastern authors. Your host Antoine gladly arranges visits to Amezrou’s ancient
synagogue, 18th-century ksar and village self-help organisations.
Villa Zagora $$
Offline map ( 0524 84 60 93; www.mavillaausahara.com; d incl half-board with
shared/private bathroom Dh860/1030, ste Dh1322; ) Light, breezy, and naturally
charming, this converted country home makes desert living look easy. French doors reveal
plush Moroccan carpets, soaring ceilings, and an eclectic art collection, including Zagora-
inspired abstracts. Staff fuss over you like Moroccan relations you never knew you had, and
marathon meals feature oasis-fresh ingredients. Pool water is wisely reused on aromatic herb
gardens; forget dromedaries and read your days away on the verandah.