KASBAHKASBAHRESTAURANTFollow red arrows from the main road; cash only.
Getting There & Away
There are regular but infrequent buses from Ouarzazate and Tinerhir (Dh40), but a grand taxi
from Ouarzazate (Dh25) is a better option.
Kelaâ M’Gouna
Although it takes its name from the nearby M’Goun mountain, the small town of Kelaâ M’Gouna
is famous for roses and daggers. Some 50km from Skoura, pink roses start peeking through
dense roadside hedgerows, and you can’t miss the bottles of local rosewater for sale in town.
During the May rose harvest you’ll see rose garlands everywhere, especially during the town’s
signature rose festival (first weekend of May). At Wednesday souqs , you can load up on
dried edible roses.
To stop and smell the roses with a nature walk, call the bureau des guides ( 0661 79 61
01, 0662 13 21 92) or book official guides through local hotels. At Kelaâ’s downtown
crossroads are some handy facilities before hitting the trail: an ATM, pharmacies and internet
cafes.
Sleeping & Eating
Kasbah Itran $
( 0524 83 71 03; www.kasbahitran.com; d incl half-board with shared/private bathroom
Dh350/ 500; ) A maze of private terraces, fireplaces and rooms, most with en-suite
bathrooms, stiff beds, and views over the M’Goun River. Trekking excursions are available, but
for a cushier experience, try sunset calèche rides and air-conditioned doubles. It’s 2km
northwest of Kelaâ M’Gouna; minivans from town run past Kasbah Itran en route to the village
of Torbis (Dh5).
Kasbah Assafar $
( 0524 83 65 77; www.kasbahassafar.com; d incl half-board with shared/private bathroom
Dh350/ 500) Other guesthouses call themselves kasbahs, but this is the real deal: a converted
family home where you’ll duck through doorways into pisé-walled rooms with views over
mountain gorges. Snug rooms have portable heaters and shared bathrooms. Count on host and
licensed mountain guide Abdelaziz Boullouz for reliable trekking advice and Berber home-
cooking. It’s 4km northwest of Kelaâ M’Gouna; follow the Kelaâ road northwest past Kasbah
Itran, and follow signs 1km through the village.
Café Restaurant Rendez-Vous des Amis $
( 0661 87 14 43; http://rendezvousdesamis.webobo.biz; Ave Mohammed V) Cinnamony à la
carte tajines (Dh35 to Dh50) and restorative herbal tisanes with wild absinthe make this the go-
to cafe-restaurant in the centre of town.