Day 4: Tajalajt to Achmrah
8-8½ HR/26KM/200M ASCENT/300M DESCENT
Take the valley piste from Tajalajt, above splendid terraced cornfields and palm and almond
groves. Less than 1½ hours brings you to Assaka n’Aït Ouzzine (1584m), its ruined kasbah
teetering above the beautiful valley. Next, the piste leads out of the valley into a different
landscape: a rocky, windy steppe that might have been lifted from Central Asia.
After 1½ hours from Assaka spent wedged between 2000m ridges, you’ll arrive at Tagmout
(also called Amgroud after one of the mountains overlooking the village) and a well-kept gîte
(per person Dh30, breakfast Dh25) with electricity, mattresses, blankets, and possibly lunch
(Dh25 to Dh30).
From Tagmout the piste leads northwest to Kelaâ M’Gouna and south to N’Kob, with
transport headed to N’Kob’s Sunday souq . The trek heads due north, climbing over an hour to
Tizi n’Tagmout (1754m) for stunning views to the M’Goun Massif. Another hour leads to El-
Mersse , where shade and a year-round spring facilitate camping.
The track continues due north, mostly in gentle descent, but with occasional climbs. Under
1½ hours after El-Mersse, there’s a riverside camp site at Tidkit under shade trees and it may
be possible to sleep chez l ’ habitant here or in Achmrah , another hour down the track.
However, the Berbers on this side of Jebel Sarhro are seminomadic and may be absent April–
May. If the houses are empty, the animal shelters will be too – a less glamorous but practical
place to sleep.
Day 5: Achmrah to the Kelaâ M’Gouna
4 HRS/14KM/150MASCENT/450M DESCENT
The best parts of this morning walk are the beginning and end. The track north of Achmrah
makes a short climb, suddenly revealing M’Goun and Siroua vistas. Less than half an hour later,
it crosses a piste that leads to an anthracite mine and should not be followed. Instead continue
north, occasionally northwest, on a well-worn track that leads down a gully towards the Dadès
Valley. As you get closer, you will see the villages of Aït Youl on your left, Aït Haroun on the
right, and a valley studded with old kasbahs. Head for Aït Haroun, where there is a bridge over
the Dadès River. The Boumalne–Kelaâ M’Gouna road is nearby, but long after you return to the
modern world, Sarhro’s seminomadic spirit stays with you.
Dadès Gorge
Those art-deco tourism posters you’ll see all over Morocco showing a red-and-white kasbah in
a rocky oasis aren’t exaggerating: just 6.5km into the gorge at Aït Youl , almond and fig trees
provide a lush green backdrop for two-tone kasbahs and ksour .
A couple of kilometres past Aït Youl, the road crosses an oued ; this river valley offers a
sneaky back way to Kelaâ M’Gouna on foot. After another 5km and over a small pass, the
hidden Gorge de Miguirne (Sidi Boubar Gorge) joins from the right, with springs and rock
pools for a good half-day stream hike.
Another 4km brings you to extraordinary red rock formations that look like wax, melting
right into the green carpet of the palmeraie below Aït Arbi . Further on where the gorge
suddenly narrows, you’ll find the village of Aït Oudinar , with a women’s carpet cooperative,