Gideon the hog is a layabout, but he’ll lumber over in his enclosure for a scratch behind the ears. If you ever wonder what pigs
do in a Muslim country, here’s your answer: Gideon weighs 280kg and wears a massive grin. Chez Pauline has that effect on
pigs, and people too.ZIZ VALLEY & THE TAFILALT
The Oued Ziz brings life to this barren landscape, carving out a valley that continues south
beyond Merzouga. The tough Tafilalt was one of the last areas to succumb to French control
under the protectorate, with tribes putting up sporadic resistance until 1932. Two years later
Morocco was officially considered ‘pacified’, but just to be on the safe side, Erfoud was built as
a garrison town to keep a watchful eye on Tafilalt tribes.
Today the road to Er-Rachidia reveals the spectacular Jurassic geography of the Ziz Gorges,
beginning 20km south of the town of Rich at the French-built Tunnel du Légionnaire. Beyond Er-
Rachidia, the road zooms past oases into rolling dunes at Merzouga.
Er-Rachidia
POP 76,800
Garrison towns aren’t generally known for their hospitality or culture, but Er-Rachidia is trying to
change that. Every May, its enormous theatre hosts performers from throughout the Sahara at
the Festival du Desert (www.festivaldudesert.ma) . Market days are Sunday, Tuesday and
Thursday.