HOTELRIADRESORTEl-Amine, one of Azemmour’s most successful painters, got it right describing his favourite view
of town from his roof terrace, which he has painted numerous times: the old walled medina
squeezed in between the Oum er-Rbia (Mother of Spring) river and the ocean, with the fields
spread beyond.
The picturesque town has inspired many artists, who have come to live here. Although it is
close to the art market of Casablanca, life is still simple, with the farmers and fishermen going
door-to-door with their produce. It’s a sleepy backwater with a languid charm, a sturdy
Portuguese medina and some wonderful accommodation options – a great place to while away
a few days overlooking the river.
The Portuguese built the town in 1513 as one of a string of trading posts along the coast.
The town’s most famous inhabitant was Estevanico the Black. Captured and made a slave, he
later became one of the first four explorers to cross the entire mainland of North America from
Florida to the Pacific.
Sights
The main sight is the medina, an ochre-walled town of narrow winding streets and whitewashed
houses. Unlike Assilah, to the north, it is completely unadorned and still gives an authentic
glimpse of life in modern Morocco. You can get up onto the ramparts near Pl du Souk or via
steps at the northeastern corner of the medina. Walk along the walls to see Dar el Baroud (the
Powder House), a Portuguese gunpowder store of which only the tower remains. To the north
of the medina is the mellah and further on you’ll get wonderful views over the river. All over the
medina are walls painted by local artists, artists’ studios including Ahmed el-Amine ( 0523
35 89 02; 6 Derb el-Hantati) and a few places selling the typical Azemmour embroidery.
Sleeping & Eating
There are lots of small restaurants outside the city walls in the new town.
L’Oum Errebia €€€
( 0523 34 7071; www.azemmour-hotel.com; 25 Impasse Chtouka; s/d/tr incl breakfast
Dh750/900/1250, with river view Dh900/1200/1650; ) This place blends traditional Moroccan
style with chic contemporary design. The simple rooms are delightful and the large lounge,
complete with open fireplace and grand piano, acts as a modern art gallery. There’s an in-
house hammam ( gommage Dh150) and treatments available (massage Dh250). The large
terrace overlooks the river and communal meals (Dh250) are served at the big dining-room
table.
Riad Azama €€
( 0523 34 75 16, 0648 24 14 85; www.riadazama.com; 17 Impasse Ben Tahar; s/d incl
breakfast Dh500/800) A grand 19th-century house complete with original carved woodwork and
rather dark rooms surrounding a leafy courtyard. The carved, painted ceilings here are some of
the finest and the rooftop terrace has great views of the medina. Dinner is available on request
(Dh200), but can be disappointing.