GUESTHOUSEHOTELJIMI HENDRIX: CASTLES OF SAND OR PIE IN THE SKY?
There are a few stories that you might hear in Essaouira: that Jimi Hendrix lived here on and off for a few years in the 1960s.
That he owned a riad that you can now stay in, or maybe it’s a restaurant you can eat at. He stayed in quite a few other riads.
He stayed in a campervan, or perhaps a tent. He tried to buy Île de Mogador. He composed Castles Made of Sand here. He
signed a photo of himself that now graces the walls of a local restaurant. He wanted to adopt a Moroccan boy. He sired various
children. He shared a room with Timothy Leary.
You can hear all of these stories in Essaouira – but they’re all bunkum. Hendrix did visit Morocco for about a week, once
only, in July 1969, with his then girlfriend, Collette Mimram, and spent two or three days in Essaouira. But he didn’t even bring a
guitar. This was 18 months after the album containing the song Castles Made of Sand was released.
And that photo, signed ‘A mon ami Sam, 63 ’ is quite simply a forgery!Sleeping
Accommodation in Essaouira isn’t cheap but there’s now a seemingly endless selection of
properties to choose from at all price levels. Most hotels and riads are within the walls of the
medina, so everything you need is within walking distance. In summer book ahead or at least
arrive early in the day to find a room. As the medina gets increasingly crowded, hotels are
being built along the coast further south and on the seafront.
The choice of budget accommodation in Essaouira is well above the usual Moroccan
standard. Not only will you find a place where the bathrooms won’t scare you, you’ll probably
get a character-laden room and terrace as well. In the midrange you’ll be spoilt for choice in
Essaouira. Each place is more charming than the next.
Essaouira has a great selection of apartments and riads to rent, most done up in impeccable
style. If you’re travelling as a family or in a group, they can be an affordable and flexible option.
Prices range from about Dh600 per night for a one-bed apartment up to Dh3000 per night for
the grand three-bedroom former British consulate.
Dar Adul €€
Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 39 10; www.dar-adul.com; 63 Rue Touahen; dDh600-880; ) This lovingly restored house has just a few comfy rooms with subtle lighting,
beautiful furniture, restrained muted colours and little touches that make it feel like a home
rather than a hotel. The owner has hung the walls with his colourful paintings. The staff are
incredibly friendly – you’ll feel more like family than a paying guest by the time you leave. Dinner
(Dh165) is available here on request.
Hôtel Beau Rivage €
Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 59 25; www.essaouiranet.com/beau rivage; 14 Pl Moulay
Hassan; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh270/390/510; ) Readers recommend this friendly hotel in a
perfect spot, overlooking the main square. The Beau Rivage has bright, cheerful rooms with
modern fittings and spotless bathrooms. The rooms are a bit noisy but offer the greatest
spectacle in town, while breakfast is served on the charming and quiet roof terrace with views
over the port and town. There’s a restaurant, too.