LOCALMEDITERRANEANLOCALLOCAL, SEAFOODOffline map Google map ( 0667 96 53 86, in UK 00 44 07768 35 21 90;
[http://www.castlesinthesand.com; per week per person from Dh3300) A stunning 18th-century](http://www.castlesinthesand.com; per week per person from Dh3300) A stunning 18th-century)
traditional Moroccan house, the ‘White House’ right in the centre of Essaouira, was lovingly
restored by London interior decorator Emma Wilson and her husband with iconic 1950s and
’60s furniture found in local junk markets. The house has several bedrooms, the best one on the
upper roof terrace, and two living rooms with lots of books and CDs, and a large terrace.
Rental includes cleaning, firewood and a pair of babouches (leather slippers) each. This is
definitely the place to be in Essaouira. Dar Emma is Emma’s other house for rent, more
traditional but equally comfortable and funky.
Jack’s Apartments ( 0524 47 55 38; www.essaouira.com/apartments; 1 Pl Moulay
Hassan) and Karimo Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 45 00; www.karimo.net; Pl Moulay
Hassan) both have a good selection of rental properties. Book well in advance during the high
season.
Eating
Riad Al-Baraka €€
Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 35 61; 113 Rue Mohammed el-Qory; mains Dh110;
lunch & dinner) Set in a former Jewish school, this hip place has several dining rooms and a
bar set around a large courtyard shaded by a huge fig tree. The food is mainly Moroccan with
some Middle Eastern and Jewish influences, the decor cool, and there’s live music by local
bands at weekends.
Taros €€
Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 64 07; 2 Rue du Skala; mains Dh120; lunch & dinner)One of the most atmospheric terraces in town, you can dine by candlelight inside or out. With
great views over the square and port, and an interesting menu specialising in fish, it’s a great
place to be. There’s often live music, too, and the magician will have you mesmerised. It’s also
good for afternoon tea, or a drink at the bar.
Outdoor Fish Grills
Offline map Google map Essaouira is packed with cafes and restaurants so there’s no difficulty
finding somewhere to eat. However, the standards vary substantially. One of Essaouira’s best
food experiences is the outdoor fish grills that line the port end of Place Moulay Hassan. Just
choose what you want to eat from the colourful displays of fresh fish and seafood at each grill,
agree on a price (expect to pay about Dh60 for lunch) and wait for it to be cooked on the spot.
Restaurant El-Minzah €€
Offline map Google map ( 0524 47 53 08; 3 Ave Oqba ben Nafii; mains Dh85-130, set menus
from Dh95; lunch & dinner) Sit on the outside terrace or in the elegant dining room inside at
this popular place facing the ramparts. The menu features a good selection of international
dishes with specialities such as blue shark and fresh fish, and there’s lively Gnawa music here
on Saturday nights.