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It’s hard to get past the cafes on Plaza Uta el-Hammam for a long juice or a relaxing mint tea.
From mid-afternoon, hawkers do the rounds of the cafes carrying trays laden with sticky
pastries for sale. In the back rooms, local men play cards and smoke kif – worth a look,
although women won’t feel particularly welcome.
Auberge Dardara Restaurant €€
( 0539 70 70 07, 0661 15 05 03; Rte Nationale 2; meals around Dh90; lunch &
dinner) This is the best kitchen in the area, and worth the 10-minute drive from town (to Bab
Taza, Dh5). The Tangerine owner uses only the freshest ingredients from the garden, bakes his
own bread and makes his own goats cheese. Try the superb venison cooked with dried figs or
the succulent rabbit with quince.
Plaza Cafe-Restaurants €
(Plaza Uta el-Hamman; breakfast from Dh20, mains from Dh30) A popular eating option in
Chefchaouen is to choose one of about a dozen on the main square. Menus are virtually
identical – continental breakfasts, soups and salads, tajines and seafood – but the food is
generally pretty good and the ambience lively.
Lala Mesouda €€
(Calle Znika; menu Dh120; lunch & dinner) This new restaurant is a welcome addition as
there are dishes on offer not found elsewhere in the town. Both the steak with Roquefort sauce
and the chicken with cream and mushrooms are recommended, and fish is also available. The
interior is comfortable and intimate and the welcome warm.
La Lampe Magique €
Offline map Google map (Rue Targhi; mains from Dh45, set menu Dh75; lunch & dinner) Thismagical place overlooking Plaza Uta el-Hammam serves delicious Moroccan staples in a grand
setting. Three bright-blue floors include a laid-back lounge, a more formal dining area and a
rooftop terrace. The menu – featuring favourites like lamb tajine with prunes and some great
cooked salads – is much better than average, and the ambience relaxed.
Chez Hicham €€
(Rue Targhi; mains around Dh80; lunch & dinner) Another new restaurant next to La Lampe
Magique, Chez Hicham has a lovely warm interior, comfortable seating and views over the
kasbah from the terrace. The usual suspects are on the menu.
Assaada €
Offline map Google map (Bab el-Ain; set menu Dh40; lunch & dinner) This reliable cheapie trieshard to please. Located on both sides of the alley just prior to Bab el-Ain, it offers the usual
menu complet, and recommends its no-cholesterol goat kefta . There’s a funky graffiti rooftop
terrace that exudes an urban charm but the staircase is not for the faint-hearted.