map are available from the tourist bureau in Al-Hoceima, and guides are being trained.
However, an excellent way to experience the park is to go through RODPAL (Rif Association
for the Development of Rural Tourism; 0539 98 18 33;
[http://www.rodpal.org/www.parquenacionalalhucemas.com; riftou [email protected]; 19 Calle Ajdir)](http://www.rodpal.org/www.parquenacionalalhucemas.com; riftou [email protected]; 19 Calle Ajdir)) ,
a network of local NGOs with Spanish backing that is developing the park’s rural tourism
potential. So far they manage 30km of paths and three bird hides. This energetic and helpful
group will lay out an itinerary that will involve inexpensive stays in one of the four gîtes , which
each sleep between two and 12 people and have a kitchen and hot water, or with a local family.
Mules are available to carry luggage. Prices vary from Dh242 to Dh308 including half-board per
person depending on size of party and length of stay. Visits to local artisans are encouraged –
women make pottery and basketware, cosmetics and essential oils, honey and jam and other
products from the prickly pear.
You can also walk to El Peñón de Velez de la Gomera along the coast from Cala Iris in 1½
hours. Without your own transport, you’ll need to hire a grand taxi to get there. In summer there
may be enough people to share one, otherwise expect to pay Dh130 one way.
CALA IRIS & TORRES DE ALCALA
Cala Iris is a small fishing village that is about to be changed forever. At the time of research
the construction of a huge resort with apartments, a hotel, a marina and a golf course had not
quite started. It was due to be completed in 2012, but like so many others, has been delayed.
The previous camp ground has been closed. The scruffy port remains, and is full of sardine
boats that fish at night with lamps. There is also a rough-looking, nameless restaurant behind
the Cooperative des Marins Pecheurs that serves typical Berber food. The port is flanked by
attractive beaches: Yellich (to the east) faces an island that you can walk out to; Oued Sahfa
lies to the west; and an hour’s hike over the hill lies Mestaza.
There are a couple of very basic shops at Torres de Alcala, 5km east. Three semi-ruined
Spanish towers stand sentinel over this village, set back from a shingle beach caught between
two rocky headlands. Torres now lies inside the National Park of Al-Hoceima. Look out for the
Café Mediterreanée ( 0660 35 75 01) , which makes a pleasant stop and also has an
apartment to rent.
TREKKING IN THE RIF MOUNTAINS:
TALASSEMTANE NATIONAL PARK
Chefchaouen to Bab Taza
This is the best introductory walk to the Rif Mountains. Within the Talassemtane National Park
(www.talassemtane.com) and starting from Chefchaouen, it takes in some spectacular scenery,
including the geologically improbable God’s Bridge, a natural stone arc spanning the Oued
Farda. You are also likely to meet troupes of Barbary apes.