The source of the Charaâ River provides a worthwhile detour. Follow signs to the tiny hamlet
of Zegzel, 2km up a side road. At the end there’s a popular picnic spot near where the river
gushes out of the cliff. Not far from here, a spectacular ridge road cuts east to Oujda. You’ll
need a 4WD vehicle, a good map and an early start.
A delightful place to stay is Gîte Tagma ( 0666 79 29 49; www.gitetagma.com; r per
person incl full-board Dh300; ) , about half an hour’s drive beyond Taforalt. It doesn’t get
any more authentic, or tranquil, than this remote, 300-year-old rural lodge midway up the
mountains, with its small working farm. The five simple bedrooms surround a common
compound, with wonderful views of pine-dotted canyons. From here you can easily trek out to
the postcard-pretty Sidi Ali Oussaidi Mosque, which stands against the mountains like a
Bavarian chapel, and the romantic town of Tagma, which sits in the valley below like a small
Berber fortress. Or you can just kick back with a book and dream. The gîte (‘sjeet’ in French) is
a joint project between the owner and Association Homme et Environment (Click here ), and the
model for rural tourism development in this region. It is signposted about 15km on the national
road from Berkane to Taforalt. Only 4WD vehicles can reach the house, but phone ahead and
you will be met in the village and escorted down the mountainside. Be aware that mobile phone
coverage is not always perfect in the mountains.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, the easiest way to access the park is to take a shared
taxi from Berkane (Dh10). Alternatively hire your own taxi; the minimum fare will be in the region
of Dh200 for two hours, although not all drivers will be willing to take their vehicles along the
poor roads near the hamlet of Zegzel. A cheaper alternative is to take a bus or grand taxi to
Taforalt and walk down. Two buses each morning make the journey from Berkane (Dh10, 30
minutes), with return services in the afternoons. Grands taxis cost Dh10, and are most frequent
on market days (Wednesday and Sunday).