ancient Fez
Time travel amid the mosaic-strewn Roman ruins (Click here ) of Volubilis
Explore the outsized imperial architecture (Click here ) of Meknès
Spend a day and night on pilgrimage in the holy town of Moulay Idriss (Click here )
Hike into the wooded slopes of the Middle Atlas (Click here ) around Azrou
Enjoy the sound of the sublime at the Festival of World Sacred Music (Click here ) in
Fez
Get away from everything amid the palms and kasbahs of the oasis town of Figuig
(Click here )
Make like a troglodyte in the weird caverns (Click here ) of Gouffre du Friouato
Getting There & Away
The train line connects the region’s major cities to the coast, with direct links from Tangier,
Rabat and Casablanca. There are also direct flights from Europe – primarily France – to Fez
and Oujda. Fez and Oujda link into Royal Air Maroc’s internal flight network, via Casablanca.
Getting Around
From Marrakesh and Casablanca, the train line runs east through Meknès, Fez and Taza all the
way to Oujda. Travelling around the mountainous Middle Atlas, however, requires catching a
bus or hiring a grand taxi.
IMPERIAL CITIES
Fez
POP 1 MILLION
In recent years Fez has boomed as a tourist destination. Money has poured into the city, from
foreigners buying up riads in the medina to new parks and fountains in the ville nouvelle. If you
believe the travel and style pages of the Western media, Fez has become the new Marrakesh.
Tell a Fassi that however, and they’ll laugh in your face. This is an old and supremely self-
confident city that has nothing to prove to anyone. Dynasties and booms have all come and
gone in the city’s 1200-year existence, and Fez will be around long after the next fashion has
burned itself out.
The city’s allegiance, or at least submission, has always been essential to whoever held
Morocco’s throne. Morocco’s independence movement was born here, and when there are
strikes or protests, they are always at their most vociferous in Fez.
For visitors, the medina of Fès el-Bali (Old Fez) is the city’s great drawcard. It’s an assault
on the senses, a warren of narrow lanes and covered bazaars fit to bursting with aromatic food
stands, craft workshops, mosques and an endless parade of people. Old and new constantly
collide – the man driving the donkeys and mules that remain the main form of transport is likely
to be chatting on his mobile phone, while the ancient skyline is punctuated equally with satellite
dishes and minarets.