RUINSLAKEMoulay Ismail guaranteed the continued existence of his elite units by providing the soldiers with
women and raising their offspring for service in the guard. By the time of his death, the Black
Guard had expanded tenfold. Its successes were many, ranging from quelling internal
rebellions, to chasing European powers out of northern Morocco, to disposing of the Ottoman
Turk threat from Algeria.
Following the road around to the right, you’ll find an expanse of grass and a small building,
the Koubbat as-Sufara’, once the reception hall for foreign ambassadors. Beside the entrance,
you will notice the shafts that descend into a vast crypt. This dark and slightly spooky network
of rooms was used for food storage, although tour guides will delight in recounting the
(erroneous) story that it was used as a dungeon for the Christian slaves who provided labour
for Moulay Ismail’s building spree. Bring a torch.
Heri es-Souani
(admission Dh10; 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm) Nearly 2km southeast of the mausoleum, Moulay
Ismail’s immense granaries and stables, Heri es-Souani, were ingeniously designed. Tiny
windows, massive walls and a system of underfloor water channels kept the temperatures cool
and air circulating. The building provided stabling and food for an incredible 12,000 horses, and
Moulay Ismail regarded it as one of his finest architectural projects.
The roof fell in long ago, but the first few vaults have been restored. They’re impressive, but
overly lit which robs them of much of their ambience – seek out the darker, more atmospheric
corners. Those beyond stand in partial ruin, row upon row across a huge area.
In summer it’s a long hot walk here from Moulay Ismail’s mausoleum, so you might want to
catch a taxi or calèche (horse-drawn carriage). If you do decide to walk, follow the road from
the mausoleum south between the high walls, past the main entrance of the Royal Palace (no
visitors) and a camp site, to find the entrance straight ahead.
Agdal Basin
Immediately north of the granaries and stables lies an enormous stone-lined lake, the Agdal
Basin. Fed by a complex system of irrigation channels some 25km long, it served as both a
reservoir for the sultan’s gardens and a pleasure lake. There are plenty of benches to break
your stroll around the waters, and a giant Giacometti-like statue of a traditional water seller.
THE ALMIGHTY MOULAY
Few men dominate the history of a country like the towering figure of Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672–1727). Originating from the
sand-blown plains of the Tafilalt region, his family were sherifs (descendants of the Prophet Mohammed) – a pedigree that
continues to underpin the current monarchy.
Ruthlessness as well as good breeding were essential characteristics for becoming sultan. On inheriting the throne from his
brother Moulay ar-Rashid, Moulay Ismail set about diffusing the rival claims of his 83 brothers and half-brothers, celebrating his
first day in power by murdering all those who refused to submit to his rule. His politics continued in this bloody vein with military
campaigns in the south, the Rif Mountains and Algerian hinterland, bringing most of Morocco under his control. He even
brought the Salé corsairs to heel, taxing their piracy handsomely to swell the imperial coffers.
The peace won, Moulay Ismail retired to his capital at Meknès and began building his grandiose imperial palace, plundering
the country for the best materials, and building city walls, kasbahs and many new towns. This cultural flowering was
Morocco’s last great golden age.