ART & CRAFTGUESTHOUSEHOTELCAFECAFEThe largest and most rewarding of the ksour is Ksar Zenaga , south below the ridge splitting
the oasis. Paths follow irrigation channels past palm trees and gardens, then suddenly you’re
among a warren of covered passages. As you tunnel between the houses, look out for some
marvellous, ancient wooden doors; and watch out – you may find yourself in someone’s
backyard.
The crumbling state of many ksour lets you see their clever construction: palm-tree trunks
plastered with pisé, and ceilings made of palm fronds. It’s cool and dark and often eerily quiet.
You may meet married women swathed in white robes, with the startling exception of one
uncovered eye. It’s easy to get lost. Village children will happily guide you for a few dirham, or
arrange a half-day tour through Figuig Hotel.
Closer to the upper part of town, to the west of the main road, Ksar el-Oudahir is home to a
lovely octagonal minaret built in the 11th century. It’s known as the sawmann al-hajaria (tower
of stone), and its design is quite unlike anything you see anywhere else in Morocco, instead
echoing the minarets of Mauritania and the Sahel.
Near the minaret are two ancient cisterns, once covered but now open for children to swim:
you may be tempted!
Ensemble Artisanal
(Blvd Hassan II; 4-8pm) Sells excellent local rugs and palm-frond basketwork.
Sleeping & Eating
The Caid’s House (Blvd Hassan II) , the old French governor’s house is being restored into a
guesthouse. Expect midrange prices.
Auberge Oasis €
( 0536 89 92 20; www.auberge-oasis.com; Rue Jamaa, Ksar Zenaga; s/d Dh100/170, incl
full board Dh300/600; ) A family home built of adobe in a ksar, this auberge is the best way
to taste traditional Figuigi life. Rooms are traditionally decorated (and with en suite), and you
can relax in the rooftop Berber tent. The home-cooked meals are excellent.
Figuig Hotel €
( 0536 89 93 09; Blvd Mohammed V; s Dh140-230, d Dh230-340, camping per person
Dh15, tent Dh40, car Dh40; ) Figuig’s main hotel, with reasonably comfy rooms. In the
palmeraie, rooms have views towards Algeria: there’s no mistaking this hotel is in the desert.
There’s a restaurant, but it’s imperative to order in advance so staff can run to the market.
Nonguests should visit to enjoy the terrace cafe, which has the best views in Figuig, especially
at sunset.
Café des Palmeraie €
(Blvd Hassan II) Opposite the bus station. Staff can rustle up a basic omelette, brochettes and
chips.
Tachraft Cafes €
(Tachraft Square, Zenaga) There are several cafes facing Tachraft Square – good spots for
coffee, pastries and people-watching.