GUESTHOUSE
HOTEL
introducing foreigners to this area, going off to the mountains and finding total tranquillity.
Ameln Valley & Jebel L’Kest
Tafraoute lies in a basin, largely surrounded by craggy brown cliffs and rocks. To the northwest
lies one such ridge, on the other side of which runs the Ameln Valley. North of the valley is
Jebel L’Kest (2359m). From Tafraoute you can make out a rock formation in this range that
resembles a lion’s face. Villagers will jokingly tell you that he is there to guard the women while
their husbands are away working.
For trekking in the Ameln Valley and Jebel L’Kest, Click here.
From Tafraoute, the Agadir road takes you to the valley, dotted with picturesque Berber
villages. Four kilometres out of Tafraoute, the road forks with the right branch turning east up
the valley towards Agadir.
TANDILT
Shortly after the fork, this village stands on the left of the road, behind L’Arganier d’Ammelne.
Sleeping & Eating
Yamina €
( 0528 21 66 21, 0670 52 38 83; www.yamina-tafraout.com; r per person incl half-
board Dh220; ) At the top of the village, Yamina is run by a Berber woman and her French
husband, who have created a unique cross between a comfortable guesthouse and a maison
traditionnelle (traditional house). The simple rooms are beautifully decorated and one has its
own dinky courtyard; our favourite, saffron, is entered via a terrace, and has cheery yellow
walls and pink beams.
L’Arganier d’Ammelne €
( 0528 80 00 69; [email protected]; s/d incl breakfast Dh200/250; ) Promising a
Berber atmosphere, this hotel and camp site’s pleasant pink rooms open onto a flowery
garden. The terrace restaurant (meals Dh50) is a knockout, serving delicious dishes including
local specialities and the recommended beef tajine with apricots, almonds and prunes.
OUMESNATE
Another few kilometres on at Oumesnate, follow the signs through the village and the footpath
to the Maison Traditionnelle ( 0666 91 77 68, 0668 32 28 66; admission Dh10; 8am-
6pm) . This three-storey granite, palm and argan house, some 400 years old, was inhabited by
20 family members – three generations – until 1982. Owner Abdesslam or one of his sons, who
speak some English, will take you on a fascinating tour, telling tales of traditional life. Staying in
the neighbouring Maison d’Hôte (www.maisontraditionnelle.com; s/d incl half-board
Dh250/400) , run by the same family, is a wonderful way to get an insight into Berber village
life. If you don’t have a pressing need for internet access and, ideally, you have a car, spending
a night here would be more interesting than Tafraoute. The six rooms have en-suite bathrooms,
and meals (Dh70) are available with some notice.