While cautious official speeches promise democratic reforms, Amnesty International reports
that measures to repress further protests have included fines, detention and abuse by police.
But while Rabat takes two steps forward, one step back, Moroccans aren’t waiting for
permission for increased civic participation. In new village self-help initiatives, a burgeoning
Moroccan blogosphere and the vibrant local arts scene, they are making their voices heard and
staying true to their Berber roots as ‘the free people’.
Top Books
» » The Sacred Night Tahar Ben Jelloun’s tale of a Marrakesh girl raised as a boy won
France’s Prix Goncourt.
» » Dreams of Trespass: Tales of a Harem Girlhood Fatima Mernissi’s memoirs of 1940s Fez
blend with other women’s stories.
Greeting People
» » Men Handshake with right hand, then touch heart.
» » Women Handshake plus one to four air kisses, depending on familiarity.
» » Men and women Touch heart with right hand; optional handshake and air kisses.
Fashion
» » Jellaba Unisex ankle-length robe with a pointy hood and knotted silk buttons.
» » Tunic Thigh-grazing, open-necked tops for men and women.
» » Caftan Long, flowing women’s gowns – sometimes with belts, but no hoods.
» » Smata Pointy leather slippers worn indoors and outside.
Myths
» » Belly dancing This is an Ottoman import, not a Moroccan custom.
» » Moroccan families They may seem large, but they’re actually smaller than the world
average, at 2.4 children per family.
» » Head coverings and beards These are far from universal in Morocco, and they may
indicate cultural affiliations, practical choices or fashion statements rather than religious
orthodoxy.
Do
» » Conserve water Water is a scarce and valuable resource in this pre-Saharan country.
» » Cover knees and shoulders Whether you’re a man or woman; it shows your respect for
your Moroccan hosts.
» » Learn basic greetings Learn a few words in Darija or Berber to delight your hosts, who
will also make an effort to speak your language.
Don’t
» » Give money, sweets or pens to children It encourages begging and shames families.