Why’d they build it that way? Eight of
the world’s leading Islamic
architectural scholars give you their
best explanations in Architecture of
the Islamic World: Its History and
Social Meaning , by Oleg Grabar et al.Historic
Hammams
» » Seffarine
Hammam, Fez
» » Hammam el-
Bacha, Marrakesh
» » Hammam Lalla
Mira, Essaouira
» » Douches Barakat,
Chefchaouen
» » Hammam Bab
Doukkala, Marrakesh
» » Archaeological
excavations, Aghmat
Marrakesh, including historic fondouqs near Place Bab Ftueh, several lining Rue Dar el-Bacha
and one on Rue Mouassine featured in the film Hideous Kinky . In Fez, an exemplary fondouq
dating from 1711 has undergone a six-year renovation to become the spiffy Nejjarine Museum
of Wood Arts and Crafts. The state is investing Dh40 million to spruce up 98 more fondouqs,
so now’s the time to see them in all their well-travelled, shop-worn glory.
Hammams
Talk about neat freaks: the first thing the Almohads did after
they seized power was raze unruly Marrakesh and its
misaligned Koutoubia mosque, and start building 83 hammams
(public bathhouses) in Fez. These domed buildings have been
part of the Moroccan urban landscape ever since, and every
village aspires to a hammam of its own. Traditionally they are
built of mudbrick, lined with tadelakt (satiny hand-polished limestone plaster that traps moisture)
and capped with a dome with star-shaped vents to let steam escape. The domed main room is
the coolest area, with side rooms offering increasing levels of heat to serve the vaguely arthritic
to the woefully hung-over.
The boldly elemental forms of traditional hammams may strike you as incredibly modern, but
actually it’s the other way around. The hammam is a recurring feature of landscapes by
modernist masters Henri Matisse and Paul Klee, and Le Corbusier’s International Style
modernism was inspired by the interior volumes and filtered light of these iconic domed North
African structures. Tadelakt has become a sought-after surface treatment for pools and walls in
high-style homes, and pierced domes incorporated into the ‘Moroccan Modern’ style feature in
umpteen coffee-table books. To see these architectural features in their original context, pay a
visit to your friendly neighbourhood hammam – there’s probably one near the local mosque,
since hammams traditionally share a water source with ablutions fountains.
Kasbahs
Wherever there were once commercial interests worth protecting in
Morocco – salt, sugar, gold, slaves – you’ll find a kasbah. These fortified
quarters housed the ruling family, its royal guard, and all the necessities for
living in case of a siege. The mellah (Jewish quarter) was often positioned
within reach of the kasbah guard and the ruling power’s watchful eye (for
more on Moroccan mellahs , Click here ). One of the largest remaining
kasbahs is Marrakesh’s 11th-century kasbah, which still houses a royal
palace and acres of gardens, and flanks Marrakesh’s mellah . Among the
most photogenic northern kasbahs are the red kasbah overlooking all-blue
Chefchaouen, and Rabat’s whitewashed seaside kasbah with its elegantly
carved gate, the Bab Oudaïa.ENDANGERED MONUMENTS: GLAOUI KASBAHS
The once-spectacular Glaoui kasbahs at Talouine, Tamdaght, Agdz, and especially Telouet have been largely abandoned to the
elements – go and see them now, before they’re gone. These are deeply ambivalent monuments: they represent the finest