TECHNIQUE
53. Camouflage and Complement
When it comes to camouflaging or complement
ing the shape of a body, designers need to think
about how to conceal or accentuate differences
in body shape. A designer who treats these de
viations from the average like variations and not
flaws is already a step ahead in the psychology of
fashion. Consider that average is just a reference
point. It usually indicates balanced proportions in
a scale that relates to height, width, and weight.
These basic body types benefit from special
design details:
The Apple
Broad shoulders and narrow hips can benefit
from something that breaks up the width of the
shoulder, such as a halter neckline.
The Pear
Emphasizing the torso, especially the shoulders,
and downplaying the hips will balance a frame
with narrow shoulders and a fuller hip.
The Ruler
The combination of narrow shoulders and hips
creates a long, thin frame. That length can be
broken up with horizontal lines as well as cups or
other detail that enhances the bustline.
The Hourglass and the Fuller Figure
Broad shoulders, full bust, and full hips benefit
from asymmetrical style lines. If the midsection
is fuller, details such as ruching can create the
illusion of a more tapered waistline.
Adding other factors into the equation, such
as long waist, short waist, cup size, height, and
weight, gives rise to nuances that may require
adjustments and/o r adaptations. Cut length,
style lines, asymmetry, detail placement, pad
ding, and corseting are some of the design
choices that assist in the modification of a body
type through clothing. Transforming the appear
ance of a figure is about redirecting attention,
and not about correction.
112 Fashion Design Essentials
Clockwise:
Bathing suit drawings: apple;
pear; ruler; hourglass
