TECHNIQUE

60. Add, Subtract, and Preserve

A sculptor is afforded three basic processes that

will inform the style of the final work. She may

add, subtract. or preserve. A designer approach­

es the use of materials in much the same way.

Each has an impact on the spatial relationship of

a garment to the wearer as well as the environ­

ment that surrounds it.

Lady Gaga is known for her high-concept

fashion sense, taking inspiration from avant­

garde designers such as Martin Margiela and

Alexander McQueen. Part of her haute couture

trousseau includes variations of a dress inspired

by Thierry Mugler. The design of the dress

features multifaceted three-dimensional shapes

that project from her body like an explosion of

crystal stalagmites. Costumes like these use the

additive process, assembling the final shape by

building onto a core garment.

The tulle gowns in a Viktor & Rolf 2010 collec­

tion achieved a level of surrealism that would

have impressed Salvador Dali. The meticulously

carved silhouettes were an exercise in the cre­

ation of negative space. These carefully executed

voids defy comprehension and leave most ask­

ing, "How did they do that?" The Dutch design

team assured environmental watchdogs that the

missing fabric was properly recycled.

In the art of origami, nothing is removed or

added. Only through folding does the form take

and retain its shape. The Marc Jacobs collection

for Dior in 2007 experimented with the life-size

application of folds and pleating used in origami.

The gowns were obviously not constructed

from one altered piece of square fabric, but the

draping and surface treatments do pay homage

to the graceful forms that result from thoughtful

folding.

126 Fashion Design Essentials

Lady Gaga in a three­

dimensional black and gold

dress, 2008

A model in an origami­

inspired gown from the

Christian Dior Haute

Couture Collection,

Spring/Summer 2007

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