ARTISTRY
66. Cultivated Influence ARTISTRY
Fashion mavericks are commonly defined
by a singular attribute: They followed their
own instincts regardless of the conventions
of their times. Marlene Dietrich and Katherine
Hepburn have become reference points for the
pant and menswear-inspired fashions for wom
en-Dietrich in a top hat and tails, and Hepburn
in casual suiting. In light of the history of pants
for women, these ladies displayed a certain level
of fashion bravery. Amelia Jenks Bloomer, an
early advocate of women's rights in the United
States, is known in part for adopting the fashion
of wearing loose trousers gathered at the ankle.
Ahead of its time, the trend did not last.
World War II made wearing pants a practical
necessity for women who were working in fac
tories, but it was not until the 1970s that slacks
became a fashionable item to include as part of
a woman's wardrobe. Designers tapped into the
Women's Liberation Movement, infusing their
collections with the all-empowering pant, which
had become yet another symbol of equality
between the sexes.
There are few contemporary examples of similar
nonconformists. But there are more theatrical
fashion renegades, such as Lady Gaga and Bjork,
who without question integrate fashion as part
of their personalities that also translates to their
performances. The question for designers who
lean toward the rebellious is, "Which visionaries
of style influence the essence of who you are as
a designer?"
138 Fashion Design Essentials
Right: Actress Marlene
Dietrich making her
Hollywood film debut as the
tuxedo-clad Amy Jolly in the
film Morocco, directed by
Josef von Sternberg, 1930
Far Right: Portrait of actress
Katharine Hepburn in slacks
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