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24. Letters: Siopers
A sloper is a template for any pattern piece that
does not include seam allo wance. Starting from
scratch is not always necessary. It is used to
develop variations on patterns and is a great tool
for brainstorming and testing out design ideas
without having to go back to square one. Since
a good sloper already includes all the measure
ments that will ensure a proper fit, the designer
has the freedom to concentrate on aesthetics.
The designer can manipulate the position of a
dart, add fullness, leng then or shorten, as well
as cut away or build areas onto the original.
Each sloper piece is like a letter in the DNA of a
garment. Each of these base patterns is designed
to conform to a different part of the body as well
as interfacing with other pieces. Every template
has elements that are unique to that piece. In a
sleeve, the seam that closes it does not relate to
any part of another pattern piece. But the cap of
the sleeve must fit into an armhole that is cr e
ated when the front bodice is connected to the
back bodice at the shoulder and side seams. The
most essential aspect of designing something
that goes from two dimensions to three is fit
how the pieces fit together and how they fit
the purpose.
Getting wrapped up in the minutia of this blue
print for a garment may seem like the exclusive
domain of pattern makers, but designers can use
their own sensibilities to solve design challenges
with this as well.
54 Fashion Design Essentials
