I NVENTO RY
35. Vintage Patina
Younger siblings everywhere complain about
hand-me-downs, but in fashion, a secondhand
garment has the potential to be a truly coveted
item. Its degree of value stems from many things:
o Is the garment still relevant? A great
motorcycle jacket sends just as powerful a
message as it ever did.
o Does a designer label count? Identifiable
markers speak to the power of branding
fashion.
o Is it a symbolic part of history? The ultra
feminine silhouettes of the early 1960s have
greatly influenced contemporary fashion
thanks to the popularity of the television series
Mad Men.
o How rare is the item? One-of-a-kind pieces are
sought after regardless of the category.
o Who wore it? The provocative dress that
Marilyn Monroe wore to sing "Happy Birthday"
to President John F. Kennedy in 1962 was
noteworthy in its day, but has continued to
increase exponentially in both popularity and
value since then.
o Does it possess glamour by association?
Designers and journalists are often guilty
of fostering relationships between clothing
and celebrities , even if there is no credible
affiliation between the two. Describing a little
black dress as "very Audrey Hepburn" may be
a sort of tribute to her, Givenchy, and Breakfast
at Tiffany's, but there isn't a real connection.
In what way can today's designers brush the
patina of a vint age garment over their work?
It need not be as literal as tarnished buttons
and buckles or distressed and faded fabrics.
The subtle use of color schemes that reflect
the aesthetics of another time is an option.
The application of old-world pattern making,
construction, or finishing techniques is another.
The use of silhouettes that reference specific
periods in fashion history can also provide the
designer with a sense of another era. Vintage
sources are now varied and plentiful. Local
boutiques, regional markets, and online retailers
are useful barometers that allow a designer to
spot timely vintage trends.
76 Fashion Design Essentials
Evening gown featuring
a distinctive geometric
silhouette of the 1980s
Right: "IT'S MINE!" A Daily
News front-page headline
from October 28, 1999.
Collector Bob Schagrin
pays $1.1 million for Marilyn
Monroe's dress.
PHOTO: NY DAILY NEWS ARCHIVE/G ETTY
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