TECHNIQUE
43. Underpinnings and Assembly
Any garment, from plain to intricate, will benefit
from a sound infrastructure. Well-constructed
garments rely on many elements that are not
apparent at first glance. Good workmanship will
depend upon specific techniques and additional
materials that best serve the design.
Choosing the best seam for a project is con
tingent on the effect the designer is trying to
achieve and the nature of the materials being
used. Simple garments may use plain seams that
can be finished with pinking shears or overlock
stitching to prevent unraveling. Bound seams are
finished with a strip of bias-cut fabric and are
commonly found in unlined garments. A French
seam is a seam within a seam, which works well
with shear fabrics. Lapped or flat-felled seams
can be found on jeans and are used for their
strength and durability.
Facings are used to finish off areas such as
a neckline or an armhole. Fusible and sew-in
interfacings are fo und in facings, cuffs, collars,
plackets, and buttonholes to add body, keep
shape, and support and reinforce an area.
They are available as woven, nonwoven, and
knit materials.
Lining is the ideal way to professionally finish a
garment. Interlining is used between the lining
and the garment to provide warmth, whereas
underlining is used to alter the hand (drape and
feel) of the fabric, while also stabilizing and
strengthening it. It can be as light as organza or
as rigid as buckram.
Boning is another type of stabilizer and is not
restricted to use in corsets, bustiers, and strap
less cresses. It can be used along side seams to
prevent sagging or as part of a neckline to avoid
gaping. It can be applied to any area to prevent it
from collapsing and taking away from the design.
Depending on the garment's design, there is
always a logical order for its assembly. How it
is assembled and finished also affects the final
product. Which areas are to be stitched? Glued?
Ta ped? Fused? Every choice takes the garment in
a different direction, making it truly unique to the
designer who conceived of it.
92 Fashion Design Essentials
Clockwise: Boned bodice;
Overlocked seam; Pinked
seam
