TECHNIQUE
44. Manipulating Fullness
The volume and bulk of a garment can be con
trolled by various methods.
Gathering fabric is one way to add fullness.
Ruffles are made of gathered fabric that is re
leased on one edge. Shirring involves gathering
on opposite edges, in multiple rows, so that the
rows are contained. Both flounces, which are cre
ated using circular shapes, and godets-wedge
shaped inserts-are used to add flared ful lness.
Smocking involves pinching fabric in patterns
such as the honeycomb. The silhouette of a gar
ment can also be pumped up with quilting and
stuffing.
Fa bric can also be folded to create many different
types of pleats that manage fullness. Flat pleats
such as knife, fan, accordion, box, and inverted
box can be pressed or unpressed, can be partial,
or can run the full length of the area. Broomstick
pleating is an irregular, crushed type of pleat.
Examples of projecting pleats include cartridge,
pinched, and tubular. Tu cks can be spaced,
graduated, doubled, and tapered, as well as being
contoured, slashed, and cross-stitched. Materi
als that have a minimum of 60 percent man
made fiber have thermoplastic properties, which
means they will retain shapes that are baked in
with heat. These heat-treated fabrics are ideal
for creating starburst pleating and variations on
Fortuny-style pleating.
Darts are one of the most efficient ways to elimi
nate unwanted fullness and contour the shape
of a garment. They are usually triangular or
diamond shaped and sewn right sides together
so that excess fabric can be folded or trimmed
away.
Many of these techniques can be used in concert
and the combinations are endless. Devising
a plan for the application of any of these pro
cedures can contribute to both silhouette and
surface texture.
94 Fashion Design Essentials
Above: Gathers create
volume in a Christian LaCroix
dress.
Right: Empire dress
pleated at bust by Victoria
Dominguez-Bagu
