On Food and Cooking

slow their inevitable deterioration. This
begins with choosing and handling the
produce. Mushrooms as well as some ripe
fruits — berries, apricots, figs, avocados,
papayas — have a naturally high metabolism
and deteriorate faster than lethargic apples,
pears, kiwi fruits, cabbages, carrots, and other
good keepers. “One rotten apple spoils the
barrel”: moldy fruit or vegetables should be
discarded and refrigerator drawers and fruit
bowls should be cleaned regularly to reduce
the microbial population. Produce shouldn’t
be subjected to physical stress, whether
dropping apples on the floor or packing
tomatoes tightly into a confined space. Even
rinsing in water can make delicate berries
more susceptible to infection by abrading
their protective epidermal layer with clinging
dirt particles. On the other hand, soil harbors
large numbers of microbes, and should be
removed from the surfaces of sturdier fruits
and vegetables before storing them.