On Food and Cooking

molecules by causing increased enzyme
activity, mixing of cell contents, and general
chemical reactivity. The more prolonged or
intense the heating, the more the food’s
original aroma molecules are modified and
supplemented, and so the more complex and
“cooked” the flavor. If the cooking
temperature exceeds the boiling point — in
frying and baking, for example — then these
carbohydrate-rich materials will begin to
undergo browning reactions, which produce
characteristic roasted and caramelized flavors.
Cooks can create several layers of flavor in a
dish by combining well-cooked, lightly
cooked, and even raw batches of the same
vegetables or herbs.
One sensory quality unique to plants is
astringency (p. 271), and it can make such
foods as artichokes, unripe fruits, and nuts
less than entirely pleasant to eat. There are
ways to control the influence of tannins in
these foods. Acids and salt increase the