On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

about the concentration of seawater (3%, or 2
tablespoons/30 gm per quart/liter) will speed
softening (p. 282) and also minimize the loss
of cell contents to the water (cooking water
without its own dissolved salt will draw salts
and sugars from the plant cells). When just
tender enough, the vegetables should be
removed and either served immediately or
scooped briefly into ice water to stop the
cooking and prevent further dulling of the
color.
Starchy vegetables, especially potatoes
cooked whole or in large pieces, benefit from
a different treatment. Their vulnerability is a
tendency for the outer portions to soften
excessively and fall apart while the interiors
cook through. Hard and slightly acid water
can help them maintain their surface firmness,
as will starting them in cold water and raising
the temperature only gradually to reinforce
their cell walls (p. 283). Salt is best omitted
from the water, since it encourages early

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