to leach out and break down oleuropein, and
the addition of an iron solution and dissolved
oxygen to react with phenolic compounds and
turn the skin black. Olives so treated are then
packed in a light 3% brine, canned, and
sterilized. They have a bland, cooked flavor
and often some residual alkalinity, which
gives them a slippery quality.
Unusual Fermentations: Poi, Citron,
Preserved Lemons Poi is a Hawaiian
preparation of taro root (p. 306). The starchy
taro is cooked, mashed, thinned with water,
and then allowed to stand for one to three
days. Lactic acid bacteria sour it, and produce
some volatile acids as well (vinegary acetic,
cheesy propionic). In longer fermentations,
yeasts and Geotrichum molds also grow and
contribute fruity and mushroomy notes.
Citron peel, candied from a relative of the
lemon, owes its traditionally complex flavor
to fermentation. Originally the citron fruits