Milks and Their Foams Some milks are
better suited to foaming than others. Because
the whey proteins are the critical stabilizers,
milks that are fortified with added protein —
usually reduced-fat and skim milks — are
most easily foamed. Full-fat foams, on the
other hand, are fuller in texture and flavor.
Milk should always be as fresh as possible,
since milk that has begun to sour can curdle
when heated.
India’s Galaxy of Cooked Milks
For sheer inventiveness with milk itself as
the primary ingredient, no country on earth
can match India. Its dozens of variations
on the theme of cooked-down milk, many
of them dating back a thousand years, stem
from a simple fact of life in that warm
country: the simplest way to keep milk
from souring is to boil it repeatedly.
Eventually it cooks down to a brown, solid
paste with about 10% moisture, 25%