On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

the throat, digestive and neurological
problems, and even death. Stressful growing
conditions and exposure to light can double or
triple the normal levels. Because light also
induces chlorophyll formation, a green cast to
the surface is a sign of abnormally high
alkaloid levels. Greened potatoes should
either be peeled deeply or discarded, and
strongly bitter potatoes should not be eaten.


Cooking Types and Behavior There are two
general cooking categories of potato, called
the “mealy” and the “waxy” for their textures
when cooked. Mealy types (russets, blue and
purple varieties, Russian and banana
fingerlings) concentrate more dry starch in
their cells, so they’re denser than waxy types.
When cooked, the cells tend to swell and
separate from each other, producing a fine,
dry, fluffy texture that works well in fried
potatoes and in baked and mashed potatoes,
which are moistened with butter or cream. In

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