On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

damaged onion into the air, and lands in the
onion cutter’s eyes and nose, where it
apparently attacks nerve endings directly, then
breaks down into hydrogen sulfide, sulfur
dioxide, and sulfuric acid. A very effective
molecular bomb! Its effects can be minimized
by prechilling the onions for 30–60 minutes in
ice water. This treatment slows the
ammunition-breaking enzyme down to a
crawl, and gives all the volatile molecules less
energy to launch themselves into the air. It
also hydrates the papery onion skin, which
makes it tougher and less brittle, and so easier
to peel off.


The Flavors of Cooked Alliums When
onions and their relatives are heated, the
various sulfur compounds react with each
other and with other substances to produce a
range of characteristic flavor molecules. The
cooking method, temperature, and medium
strongly affect the flavor balance. Baking,

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