portion of their leaves is often increased (to as
much as 1 ft/3 m long and 3 in/7.5 cm thick)
by hilling soil up around the growing plant to
shield more of it from the sun. This practice
also fills the spaces between leaves with grit,
and necessitates careful washing. The inner
leaves (and seldom-used roots) have the
strongest flavor. The upper green portion of
each leek leaf is edible, but tends to be
tougher and to have a less oniony, more
cabbage-like flavor than the lower white
portion. It’s also rich in long-chain
carbohydrates that give the cooked vegetable
a slippery texture, will gel when chilled, and
can lend body to soups and stews.
Stems and Stalks:
Asparagus, Celery,
and Others
Vegetables derived from plant stems and
stalks often present a particular challenge to