On Food and Cooking

into smaller pieces, this should be done
with the least possible physical pressure,
which can crush cells and initiate the
development of off-flavors and darkened
patches. Cutting with a sharp knife is
generally the most effective method;
tearing by hand requires squeezing, which
may damage tender leaves. The greens
should be well rinsed in several changes of
water to remove grit, soil, and other
surface contamination. Soaking them for a
while in ice water will fill their cells with
any water they’ve lost, making them turgid
and crisp. Dry the greens as thoroughly as
possible, so that the dressing will coat the
leaves without being diluted. Thick,
viscous dressings are slower to run off the
leaf surface than thin, runny ones. A
simple vinaigrette dressing (p. 637) can be
made more viscous by chilling it in the
freezer.
Oil-based dressings like vinaigrettes