On Food and Cooking

(clingstone) or easily detached (freestone).
The genetically dominant characteristics are
white, melting, freestone flesh. Yellow
varieties were developed mainly after 1850,
and firm clingstone varieties have been bred
mainly for drying, canning, and improved
tolerance of shipping and handling. The
yellow coloration comes from a handful of
carotenoid pigments, beta-carotene among
them; rarer red varieties contain anthocyanins
(as the skin often does). Peaches begin to
ripen at the stem end and along the groove, or
“suture,” and are said to continue their flavor
development even after harvest. The
distinctively aromatic flavor of peaches and
nectarines comes largely from compounds
called lactones, which are also responsible for
the aroma of coconut; some varieties also
contain clove-like eugenol.
The most frequent problem with peaches is
mealy flesh, apparently due to impaired pectin
breakdown when the fruit has been