On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

rivaling the tomato (oranges reach 70
milligrams per 100 grams, grapefruits 250).
They contain little starch and therefore don’t
sweeten much after picking. Usually the
blossom end of the fruit contains both more
acid and more sugars, and so has a more
intense taste than the stem end. Neighboring
segments can also vary significantly in taste.
Citrus aroma is produced both by the oil
glands in the skin and oil droplets in the juice
vesicles — and these two sources are usually
quite distinct. Generally the vesicle oils
contain more fruity esters, and peel oil more
green aldehydes and citrusy/spicy terpenes (p.
274). A few aroma compounds are shared by
most citrus fruit, including generically citrusy
limonene and small amounts of eggy
hydrogen sulfide. In freshly made juice, the
sac oil droplets gradually aggregate with the
pulpy materials, and this aggregation reduces
the aroma available to the taster, especially if
some of the pulp is strained off.

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