dominated by a sweet-smelling compound
called the angelica lactone. Its candied stems
were a popular delicacy from medieval times
through the 19th century, but they’re seldom
seen in the kitchen nowadays. Various parts of
the plant now flavor gins, ver-mouths,
liqueurs, candies, perfumes, and other
manufactured products.
Celery Celery was a thin-stalked, aromatic
but bitter herb called smallage before
gardeners developed the mild, thick-stalked
vegetable. Apium graveolens is a native of
damp European habitats near the sea. The
distinctive flavor of its leaves and stalks
comes from compounds called phthalides,
which it shares with lovage and with walnuts.
It also has citrus and fresh notes. Celery is
often simmered or sautéed with onions and
carrots to provide a broad aromatic base for
sauces and braises.
Chervil Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) has