On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

eliminating the bitterness). Mustard seeds and
horseradish roots are pungent because we
grind them up raw and encourage their
enzymes to liberate the irritant molecules.
When mustard seeds are cooked — for many
Indian dishes they are toasted or fried until
they pop — the liberating enzymes are
inactivated, no irritants are liberated, and their
flavor ends up nutty and bitter rather than
pungent.


Mustards Mustard seed has been found in
prehistoric sites from Europe to China, and
was the first and only native pungent spice
available to early Europe. It has been made
into the familiar European condiment at least
since Roman times; its name in most
European languages comes not from the Latin
name of the seed or plant (sinapis), but from
the condiment, which was made with freshly
fermented wine (mustum), and the hot
(ardens) seeds. Different nations have

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