On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
mouth   —   sparing the nasal   passages    —   and
breathing in through the nose, to avoid
drawing irritants from the mouth into the
lungs.

The Bean Family:
Licorice And Fenugreek


Licorice Licorice comes from the roots of
Glycyrrhiza glabra, a native of southwest
Asia. Its English name is a much-altered
version of its genus name, which derives from
the Greek for “sweet root.” The woody roots
of this shrub are remarkable for containing a
steroid-like chemical, glycyrrhizic acid, that
is 50–150 times sweeter than table sugar. The
water extract of the roots contains many
different compounds, including sugars and
amino acids, which undergo flavor-and
pigment-producing browning reactions with
each other when the extract is concentrated.
Licorice extracts are available as dark syrups,

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