On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

cells influence texture and culinary usefulness
in a number of ways. So it’s worth knowing
about the proteins, starches, and oils in some
detail.


Seed Proteins: Soluble and Insoluble


Seed proteins are classified by a particular
aspect of their chemical behavior, which also
determines their behavior during cooking: the
kind of liquid in which they dissolve. This
may be pure water, water and some salt, water
and dilute acid, or alcohol (these types are
called “albumins,” “globulins,” “glutelins,”
and “prolamins”). Most of the proteins in
legumes and nuts are soluble in a salt solution
or water alone, so during ordinary cooking in
salted water, bean and pea proteins become
dispersed in the moisture within the seeds and
the cooking liquid surrounding them. By
contrast, the main storage proteins in wheat,
rice, and other grains are acid-soluble and

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