On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

a high concentration of amino acids, mainly
glutamic acid), with a rich aroma. Several
hundred aroma molecules have been
identified in soy sauce, with roasty
compounds (furanones and pyrazines), sweet
maltol, and a number of meaty sulfur
compounds among the more prominent. All in
all, soy sauce is a concentrated, mouth-filling
liquid, a versatile flavor enhancer for other
foods.


Tamari Tamari names a kind of Japanese soy
sauce closest to its Chinese original: made
with little or no wheat, and therefore poor in
alcohol and fruity esters derived from it, but
with a darker color and richer flavor thanks to
the higher concentration of soybean amino
acids. Today tamari is sometimes stabilized
with added alcohol, which makes its aroma
closer to that of ordinary shoyu. Even stronger
than true tamari is twice-fermented
saishikomi, made by making up the mash not

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